VW Golf MK3 Coil pack

[Trubshoe]

My hobby of the last few years is my wifes VW Golf MK3 Cabrio, she now has a spare car, which means I can take my time and enjoy tinkering with it when it breaks down. Around the start of the year I discovered oil in the coolant. I have pulled the head off and had it tested, replaced the head gasket, and the oil cooler, and had the auto trans serviced. Now it won't start. There does not seem to be any out put from the coil. If I hold the HT lead against the block I get nothing.
I have had the coil pack fail before a few years ago, and got a second hand one. Is it likely the coil pack would just fail for no apparent reason? Mind you the last one did! It just seems a bit of a coincidence. Was holding the HT lead against the block a good idea, I did get one spark, could I have killed it? VAG com software does not report any problems. I would just go out and buy a new coil however they are a bit expesive here in NZ, about $400, (yeah I know, this equates to about 20 quid) so don't want to buy one if I don't have to!

Any ideas much appreciated.

Regards

Angus

[Luxobarge]

No telling from here without doing more testing, but yes, coil packs are notoriously unreliable so it wouldn't surprise me. Don't believe all the "If only everything in life was as reliable as a VW" bull - they're just as bad and in some cases worse than any other mainstream manufacturer in my experience.

[richardtaylor]

As Luxobarge states it is probably the coil pack as they were rubbish - there was a massive supply issue a few years ago where you just couldn't get them due to the level of failures being witnessed: The supplier got the balme but actually it was all down to the mighty VAG pushing suppliers for ever lower prices - something had to give.

Luxobarge is also right about reliability - my company Audi A4 was shocking: I had Montegos and Maestros as company cars that were more reliable, I kid you not.I've never been able to fathom this percieved superiority of German Brands, they really are no better than most other main stream manufacturers in my experience

Its not just VAG - I used to work for a certain French Manufacturer who has had identical problems with the same root cause.

[Trubshoe]

Thanks for your help so far. Does anyone know what the engine speed sensor does?
The engine is an ADY 2.0 8v, while doing the work I noticed the wires on the engine speed sensor had no insulation and were all shorted together, since the car was running ok, I assume it was not that important, thought maybe this could have been the reason for it hunting at idle. So I replaced it with a new one I got on ebay, now wondering if this has anything to do with the lack of spark!
Although I thought the hall effect sensor on the dizzy sorted out the ignition timing?

Regards

Angus

[tractorman]

I'm not slagging off anyone here, but the VW Audi Forum may be able to advise:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/

You have to sign up to see answers to some of the forums, but the advice is often from VW technicians who seem to know their stuff! Just beware though - there are a lot of doom merchants there!

And yes, I've had VWs for over 20 years (just!) with no major problems - but I wouldn't dare comment on petrol engine problems!

[Trubshoe]

Thanks for all the help, I did join the VWAudi Forum, and have been told that if the engine speed sensor is faulty there will be no spark. I have rewired the original, and when I get the urge to remove the starter motor and front engine mount again, I will swap it with the "new one".
I have done some tests, with a 12 V battery across the old sensor add a multi meter between the +ve and sense (yellow) wire, then wave a screw driver past the end of the senor, I get a pulse of about 6v. When I make the same connections with the one in the car, and turn then engine over by hand, I get nothing, which suggests the new one is faulty or not inserted correctly.
The guy on the VWAudi forum suggests getting a genunine VAG part!

Thanks again

Angus

[Trubshoe]

I soldered a new cable onto the old sensor and sealed both ends with RTV and self vulcanising tape. I fitted it to the car and it now runs. I am happy, though not so happy with the new sensor I purchased on ebay.
I have become a bit of an expert at removing the starter motor and front engine mount!


Thanks again for your help

Regards

Angus

[Luxobarge]

Well done! at least you know where to look if you get the same symptoms in the future....

Thanks for the update - always nice to know the outcome and what the fault was in the end.

Cheers!

[tractorman]

I'm glad it is sorted out, I must admit, I'd have guessed the new sensor was sound - and be looking elsewhere for ages! However, rereading the posts, it becomes obvious - it hunted before the new sensor THEN didn't work at all! I would normally check what I fitted in that situation

Is there a chance you can get your money back from whoever you bought it from? Some eBay sellers are great - even if it's a while since it was bought.

[Trubshoe]

Thanks for the suggestion Tractorman, the ebay seller "carparts4less" refunded my money, so since I repaired the original sensor, and apart from the grief I guess I have saved a few dollars.

Regards

Angus