Practically Classics Forum

The wind was off the sea and bitterly cold, so not much done
com[ared to what I wanted to do.

The intake manifold had the burnt paint wire brushed off and
the welded closed holes flatened.
Then new fixing holes drilled and tapped.





The map sensor has been removed and the intake manifold is
awaiting a coat of paint.

No more pictures for today as the phone battery went flat!!!

The bottom fixing brackets for the cooling fans were trimmed
and filed ready for painting.

The right upper radiator fixing/support bracket was made out
of angle iron, it needs drilling for the fixing bolts.

THAT BLOODY BOLT!!! The one that snapped on the water
pump. I used a industrial dremmil bit in the drill and put a
dip in were the bolt body was, this was to suposed to stop
the drill bit slipping and going at the wrong angle.

As you can tell it didn't go straight and true, but at a
slight angle!
I ended up putting a slightly larger drill bit through, so
I can slide a bolt through from either side and use a nut &
washer on the other end.

It's done and it will do the job that's all that matters!!
It means I can start looking at assembling the ancillaries
again.

Painting tomorrow.

My body was not willing so very light work done.

Coolant heater hose ordered for connecting the
water and transmission oil pipes.

Metal parts some getting their first coat of paint,
hung ready for tomorrow and a to be sanded and
another coat.




The panel beaten oil pan finally got a coat of paint
on it's exposed corner.



O slipped and the K-frame got splatted with the paint!



The nights are drawing in it's dark by 4pm!

As I sit here thinking of what to do to finish the engine swap off,
and get her back on the road within the next few weeks.

My thoughts have switched back to some of the questions I have
asked to the different forums and directly to individuals.

These questions will be better thought out and worked on in the
new year when I can get in the car, and raid the scrapyards, and
travel to collect what I will need.


Previously I showed pictures of the deteriorating leather seats.
So I will be searching for a new set from a mk2 either in gray or
black.


A question that has been raised on the extra weight also raised
the question on stopping power. I have asked a gentleman just
north of Berwick-upon Tweed, whom I have purchased parts from
before, he shows PT Cruisers if I remember correctly.

I have asked if he could please look into the Callipers and Hubs off
the relevant PT Cruiser, this would upgrade the front brakes.

Please read the following threads for more information.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=288835

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=381582


The off set pulley system (or what ever you want to call it) to place
the alternator back behind the engine, and reinstate the A/C pump
and condensor.

That too will be looked into next year, thus allowing me to find a spare
Voyager/Caravan alternator untouched by a grinder.

LPG front end kit replacement, will cost £200 to £350.
Old kit was for 4 cylinder new needs to be not only for a V6 but for a
more torquer engine.

As for any small dents or scratches in the bodywork, they too will be
sorted out.

Anything I've missed?

Only had 2 hours working on the old girl today.

First refit the oil pressure sensor and oil filter.



Then attached the hoses off the old power steering
pump onto the one with the serpintine belt pulley
alresdy installed.



Then with a new gasket the front exhaust manifold,
as well as the manifold conecting pipe.



I raided dad's scrap bag where he collects his
waste/unusable copper pipe. The first bit I come
to eas the right size pipe but too long and it
had paint on it.

A little wire wool with some elboe grease, and
then cut to the correct length. And the upper
pipe to the heater matrix is done.
(I must put the intake manifold to make sure
that there is the clearances)



I wish I had more time to work on her as today
the wind was blowing off the land, the ground was
dry, and clear skies.

First thing to do was to put the intake manifold on to check for
clearances for that upper heater hose.
Previous photo.



Current View!!
WHAT THE F**k! What happened to my clearance around the
back, and over the top?







And the upper heater pipe looks okay with plenty of clearance.



I closed the bonnet and as the radiator wasn't there, I put my
hand through the front to take a few more shots to check the
clearance with the bonnet and the manifold.







I did bolt up the Bumper Bar and left horn, this was done as
I kept tripping over it, so it was put somewhere safe on the
car!



The tacho adapter arrived in a large envelope big enough to
hold A4 size paper work. Inside was a little pink packet with
it in. (on the Satellite TV remote control for scale)





I put tha adapter back in it's packet as Dean popped over just
as I was about to start on my cuppa tea!

He removed the original rear right brake caliper and fitted the
spare rather than mess a bout with trying to get the well sezeed
bleeding nipple out, which had been rounded too!

As he had some time Dean listened to the video recording I took
when mother had me out and about in dad's discovery.

This video was recorded even though mother said not to!!!
As both parent's were at work an both our car insurances didn't
cover us to drive the Discovery out on the roads, the video was
able to give Dean an idea of where the problem might be and an
idea of how bad it was.

So Christine had her wheels fitted and was taken off the axle
stands, as these were needed to get the Discovery off it's wheels.

Within a few minutes from putting the jack under the Discovery,
Dean had found the problem, and it's BAD!!!!

The Discovery had been MOT'd earlier in the year and they were
told it needed a front right bearing doing. Dean did the bearing
and as he had tightened all the bits up and pulled everything
back into line the noise had gone. But it wasn't the wheel bearing,
but the front right prop shaft!

So the prop shaft could have gone at any time it was that bad!!!
So if something doesn't sound right get it checked or record it on
you're mobile phone and get somebody who does know what they
are doing to kindly listen to it!
(Might be an idea for those wanting help in their post for help to
have a video recoding of the offending noise etc to help others
suggest possible options or get a good laugh )

Dean has said he will pop over and fit the replacement prop shaft
when I get one sorted. So until then everyone is using mother's
car till it is condemned which will be the minute Dean claps eyes
on it!!

Later in the day, a little soldering and a few wires added.

I don't have a clue how big your TV remote controller is.

Any chance of measuring the small board against something universal like a record sleeve, milk bottle or 12" rule?

Glad to see you're getting there with the car.

Okay as there was no real scale to the photo with the tach adapter.



And that is 15/16 of an inch.

http://autosportlabs.net/TachAdapter

Now that really is quite small.

I was in a little pain so not much done.

I did wedge one side of a plastic sheet under the front
wheels, and wieghed the other side down with the
metal stool/step.

The sheet was to stop any paint that dripped off the car
from soaking into the concrete. As I gave the upper rad
support and the fan fixing brackets were pop riveted
together then painted dark green.



While I was outside and could remember to do it a photo
of the washer bottle. Which is where some had suggested
that I had mounted the battery rather than remaking the
battery tray the way I did.



As I have plenty of used insulin pens, and the cap/cover is
the right size I decided to use a bust one as a holder and
protector for the tach adapter.

I show an undamaged insulin pen next to the cap and
snapped off end how it will go together.
(the insulin cartridge was undamaged)





Almost done the below picture is before I used gasket
seal to glue and seal the bits together.

To avoid damaging the air intake manifold this needs to
be trimmed back so that there is at least enough space
for movement.



Market up evenly spaced markers from the centre point, by
using to cable ties taped to the intake manifold.



A piece of masking tape was placed down so the marking up
was made easier. The piece that was cut off was an inch at
it's wider point





Please note how dirty the bottom of the windscreen is in the
above photos!

So as I wanted to clear that area out below the windscreen
so no rotting vegitation was ther I gave the bottom of the
windscreen a goo clean and found this!!!







Dad had some sealant/glue used on boats and yachts, so I used
that in the gap between the bottom of the windscreen and the
metal framework it is glue too.





The excess will be scrapped off once set.
The gap was cleaned out before filling, and it needed doing
before the weather change and the screen could have
shattered when water got behind it and froze.