I have read a short piece from a magazine for machinists.
They tested various stuff for rust seized screw threads.
WD 40 didn't come up as that good.
The best was 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid.
The un seized torque was 5 times less than WD40.
Bob.
Rusty nuts and bolts
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
WD40 is not specifically a penetrating fluid/lubricant. There are better products on the market for such.
1986 VW Golf GTi, 1988 VW Golf GTi, 1993 BMW e30 318i Touring Lux
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
Plusgas or heat every time for me.
WD40 is for spraying on electrical things to displace moisture..
Kev
WD40 is for spraying on electrical things to displace moisture..
Kev
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
WD40 is also really good for removing brake dust from alloy wheels.
The only time I use it as an oil is for lubricating locks. It's amazing how much crud gets inside a Yale convenience lock over a years use.
The only time I use it as an oil is for lubricating locks. It's amazing how much crud gets inside a Yale convenience lock over a years use.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
I was told by an Everest fitter that WD isn't the thing for locks as the "protection" part clogs them up. The lad who taught me most of my car mechanics used to swear by Duck Oil for locks, but I reckon the proper graphite powder stuff if pretty dashed good if the locks aren't rusted completely!
Hasn't "Rusty Nuts" been done to death quite recently (within a year!!)? John (JPB) recommended the acetone mix then. Mind you, the "Shock and Release" stuff from Halfords is handy stuff - especially as it's in aerosol form, so you can spray from a distance. Plus gas is great, the only snag is that it can make things worse if you don't get the bolt/nut freed and removed straight away.
OTOH, I tend to find that if you nave to fight to get a properly rusted fitting loose, the threads are pretty well goosed, so you end up buying a new bolt/nut or re-tapping castings etc anyway. There again, with the tractors, there have been many years' worth of work in brown smelly stuff to make a proper seized joint!
Hasn't "Rusty Nuts" been done to death quite recently (within a year!!)? John (JPB) recommended the acetone mix then. Mind you, the "Shock and Release" stuff from Halfords is handy stuff - especially as it's in aerosol form, so you can spray from a distance. Plus gas is great, the only snag is that it can make things worse if you don't get the bolt/nut freed and removed straight away.
OTOH, I tend to find that if you nave to fight to get a properly rusted fitting loose, the threads are pretty well goosed, so you end up buying a new bolt/nut or re-tapping castings etc anyway. There again, with the tractors, there have been many years' worth of work in brown smelly stuff to make a proper seized joint!
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junkyarddog
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:18 pm
- Location: Co,Limerick.Ireland.
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
I always just use ATF on rusty looking nuts and bolts.
Hasn't failed me yet,
and I have a constant and free supply of it
Hasn't failed me yet,
and I have a constant and free supply of it
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
In some cases its easier to just angle grind the nut off. Depends what it is. Sometimes the rust is so bad that any attempt to undo is a waste of time.
I did a mini rear subframe. The front rear subframe mounting at the end of sill was rusty. So I just cut the sill ends out and made new ones. One could spend hours struggling to get the bolts out only to find the sill closing panel is no good any way.
I did a mini rear subframe. The front rear subframe mounting at the end of sill was rusty. So I just cut the sill ends out and made new ones. One could spend hours struggling to get the bolts out only to find the sill closing panel is no good any way.
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Flatlander
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2015 10:31 am
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
I'm with using the atf/acetone mix myself. Or heat when I run out of the mix!
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
The magazine tested a range of products. WD was the least good. With home brew atf acetone mix being the best.
I think the acetone atf mix is sold in the USAas marvel mystery oil.
Even engine oil works a bit.
3 in 1 oil is handy
Bob
I think the acetone atf mix is sold in the USAas marvel mystery oil.
Even engine oil works a bit.
3 in 1 oil is handy
Bob
Re: Rusty nuts and bolts
I'm a PlusGas fan. Duck Oil (the proper stuff) works well if you let it creep for a while. Big compressor and windy gun is possibly my favourite though.
P45.
P45.