spraying

[tolley]

Hi all , just been spaying ,for the first time ,with cellulose ,all looks good just the odd area needs a bit more of a coat .

now its dried ,do i need to sand again ,or could i just touch up the areas .?

[tractorman]

A lot depends on the areas that need more paint - they should be rubbed down with very fine wet&dry paper (1500 grit or more) and given another coat. There may be some overspray onto your "finished paint", that can also be rubbed back to get a smooth finish.

If you have put plenty of paint on the car and feel that the finish is less than perfect, you can rub the finished paint with something lie 2500 wet&dry, moving to rubbing compount (or T-cut) and finally, give it a good polish.

As an aside - i reckon that a vet is better qualified to do spaying (the RSPCA may be after you if you do it yourself)

Yeah - and I never do typos do I???

[tolley]

what causes ,on a cellulose finish a rough textured finish ,orange peel like .
what thinners should be use with cellulose .

[tractorman]

The usual reasons are wrong pressure on the airline and incorrect paint-thinners mix. Rather than me trying to remember the causes and cures, I suggest you try Google for the answers: it will save everyone guessing what may be the cause in your particular case!

However, because you ask about suitable thinners, this may be your problem! The obvious answer is "Cellulose Thinners for cellulose paint"! However, a good automotive paint supplier will offer you several options for "Celly thinners" - there's a "fast" grade for colder weather (sometimes called "Anti-Bloom"). I'd certainly recommend this at this time of year as, IMHO, it is far too cold and damp to spray paint in an unheated garage (I'll only be using aerosol or brush paint for small unseen areas until April/May in my unheated garage). The cold weather may also be a reason for orange peel - as is using incorrect thinners that won't let the paint "self level"!

In the worst case, if you have loads of paint on the panels, you can carefully rub the orange peel out with fine wet&dry - 600 grit at the minimum, but somewhere in the 1500 - 2500 range will give the best results (though might take a while). You can then spray another coat, or give it a good polish, and should get a good finish.

Don't try rubbing out orange peel on synthetic or enamel paint though: they only have gloss in the top few microns and will soon rub down to a matt finish! not that you should have enamel anywhere near celly, just a thing to remember if you come across enamel (eg the garden mower or an old Land Rover/tractor/wagon etc)

[mr rusty]

Orange peel- usually happens when the paint is too thick, not mixing with the thinners properly.....basically, for whatever reason, your paint hasn't flowed. Not hard to fix, just let it harden and flat it down. With cellulose paint you use a cellulose thinner...and at this time of year I'd be using an anti-bloom one.

[Grumpy Northener]

what causes ,on a cellulose finish a rough textured finish ,orange peel like .

Your paint is too thick - not thinned enough - you will be able to flat the roughness out of it though with patience use either 1800 or 2000 grade wet and dry with a rubbing down block on the flat surfaces - I use a little soap to help and rinse the wet / dry paper on a regular basis - make sure the bucket / water & paint surface are all clean and free of dust or grit - use steady pressure and long strokes where you can - you need to aim for a flat matt paint finish - the flange / curved areas have to be done without the block using the curvature of your hand - take care not press down too firmly with the top of your fingers has this will result in digging into the paint and creating grooves in the paint finish - once flatted wash down and dry the panel - then you need to cut the paint with a cutting compound - I recommend Farecla G3 to start - use clean mutton cloth / stockingette - this should bring a fair finish to the paint but if you then use a light cutting compound or a T cut based polish over the paint you will start to achieve a gleaming finish - especially once completed and a good quality wax applied Top tips: Always flat all the way through all paint preparation stages (including primer coats) by using the methodology of long strokes working from the front of the panel to the rear of the panel - in a straight line (section at a time is fine) employ the same method with the flatting of the final paint finish - right through the polishing & waxing stages - with patience this will give you a top class finish without swirl marks in the completed paintwork Work methodically - taking care not rub through on edges / swaging lines or panel edges - when you get fed up and bored - walk away from it and go and have a cup of tea / find something else to do or leave until the following the day Keep everything as clean has you can - from the panels you are painting to workshop / garage floor Your paint finish will only be has good the preparation of the panels underneath the paint - anyone can paint car - but getting a good finish is another story entirely Don't give up too easily - it does take some time to gain the skill / knack required 10 / 10 from me for having a go in the first place - don't be frightened of posting a couple images up - it may not be the finish that you would like but several of us on the forum all have some good tips on how to get the best out of the paint / equipment that you have to hand.

what thinners should be use with cellulose

For colour / to coats you need a 'Top Gloss Cellulose Thinner' this and the polishing products listed above will all be available from a good Automotive Refinishing Supplier - you should find one of these locally to you but if not there are several that offer on line ordering you also find several large automotive refinishing stockists on E Bay Good luck - any further problems just post up and either I or one of the forum members will have an answer for you Chris

[tolley]

thanks for all the help ,the thinner is SWS standard thinner .
I will try and post some pics ,of the panels .

[Luxobarge]

Agree with all of the above.

Standard thinner is OK for primer, but definately too rough for top coat, as above you need top gloss thinner, it will allow the paint to flow much better.

[tolley]

thanks ,it does look like the thinner is the problem .
off to get some ,let you know how it went latter

[Luxobarge]

One more thing - the current weather is really poo for spraying, it's cold and damp, both of which are a bad thing and can lead to a poor finish. Make sure where you are spraying is thoroughly warmed up before you start and keep it warm until the paint is properly dry, otherwise it can bloom and give other unwanted reactions. Try to use electric heating if you can, or at least not fossil-fuel powered, because gas and oil actually produce water as a product of combustion, and while it might be warmer it can leave the air even more humid than it was to start with. Not to mention that cellulose is very volatile and therefore there's a big risk of fire.

Cheers!