I am getting close to welding in my new boot floor, the original one was made of rust all along both edges (it was a bodge of 3 panels, the original, a repair and another bit) so I can't see what the spacing of the factory spot welds was.
Is 1 ever 2" adequate or should they be closer / wider spaced?
Spacing of spot / plug welds
Spacing of spot / plug welds
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
There's a photo that shows the original welds here:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/range ... 32629.html
Perhaps their suggestions may help too! The pic seems to suggest that your 2" spacing is near enough. I don't envy you - I had a torrid time trying to make decent spot welds on the Landy's footwell!
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/range ... 32629.html
Perhaps their suggestions may help too! The pic seems to suggest that your 2" spacing is near enough. I don't envy you - I had a torrid time trying to make decent spot welds on the Landy's footwell!
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
Use nuts and bolts...Then no one can say " Look at the state of that welding!"
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
That looks pretty solid compared to mine. After some screwdriver related investigation, there were 1" wide holes down each side and the lip on the rear floor it welds to was made from steel thinner than a sheet of A4. Then there is the section under the rear seat which is like lace and the rear floor itself which I thought had some surface rust but has some "nice" holes in that too.
Welding is my least favourite hobby but the one I seem to need to do the most of.
I'll go with the 1 every 2" and a seam across the back where it touches the rear cross member. That should hold it in.
Cheers
Welding is my least favourite hobby but the one I seem to need to do the most of.
I'll go with the 1 every 2" and a seam across the back where it touches the rear cross member. That should hold it in.
Cheers
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
-
tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
Which is why I've been surfing for nearly two hours (and found little worthwhile) instead of sorting out the mountings for the Landy's fuel tankTerryG wrote: Welding is my least favourite hobby but the one I seem to need to do the most of.
Even more annoying - the tank is almost fitted; the next bit is working out tub supports that can use the spare metal I have available!
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
I feel your pain. The problem is the more you do, the more you find that needs doing.
With mine there is a tubular cross member under the rear seats which is fine but the chassis it is welded to is AWOL on both sides. Some moron thought that triangulation of the mounts and boxing them in was a good idea but to "save weight", drilled a 16mm hole through the middle. They however didn't put any drain holes in the bottom so water has been pooling on top of it for 20 years, eventually corroding a nice big hole.
After I fix that the next job is the rear floor including the mounts for the back seat, then flanges to weld in for the boot floor to sit on, 1001 spot welds for the boot floor itself and the strip for the lower tailgate seal.
After that is all done and the structure is sound, I have to put a new inside edge on the osr light box (I have already done the nsr one) then paint and put it all back together.
Not to mention replacing sections of loom that are corroded and the EAS line I accidentally cut through.
I have made up almost all the sections I need to do the repairs with, I am just lacking the enthusiasm to finish cutting out rot and weld them in. I love land rovers but really wish they had some rust protection from the factory.
With mine there is a tubular cross member under the rear seats which is fine but the chassis it is welded to is AWOL on both sides. Some moron thought that triangulation of the mounts and boxing them in was a good idea but to "save weight", drilled a 16mm hole through the middle. They however didn't put any drain holes in the bottom so water has been pooling on top of it for 20 years, eventually corroding a nice big hole.
After I fix that the next job is the rear floor including the mounts for the back seat, then flanges to weld in for the boot floor to sit on, 1001 spot welds for the boot floor itself and the strip for the lower tailgate seal.
After that is all done and the structure is sound, I have to put a new inside edge on the osr light box (I have already done the nsr one) then paint and put it all back together.
Not to mention replacing sections of loom that are corroded and the EAS line I accidentally cut through.
I have made up almost all the sections I need to do the repairs with, I am just lacking the enthusiasm to finish cutting out rot and weld them in. I love land rovers but really wish they had some rust protection from the factory.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
I bought a load of these:
http://www.frost.co.uk/temporary-sheet- ... r-kit.html
And a really nice, lightweight auto-darkening welding helmet, Makes working on panels etc a much nicer experience
Kev
http://www.frost.co.uk/temporary-sheet- ... r-kit.html
And a really nice, lightweight auto-darkening welding helmet, Makes working on panels etc a much nicer experience
Kev
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
They look quite neat, Fortunately for what I am doing I have a range of various sized magnets which are doing the job (2x 25lb, 3x 50lb and 2x 75lb). A couple of large hammers come in handy when fine adjustment is required
If I have to do much more of this then they look like they could be a good investment.
How well do they last?
If I have to do much more of this then they look like they could be a good investment.
How well do they last?
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
Terry, regarding the spacing of spot welds and the general assembly sequences for panels, it's well worth getting hold of the Thatcham Methods slide for the vehicle in question (assuming that you don't already have a full library of Thatcham Methods slides in your home).
Members of trade and related organisations, including .ac ones , can download here.
Be aware that some older cars' information may only be available on microfiche, your nearest technical library can help in that case.
Members of trade and related organisations, including .ac ones
, can download here.Be aware that some older cars' information may only be available on microfiche, your nearest technical library can help in that case.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: Spacing of spot / plug welds
They are commonly known as cleco fasteners. I have had my set ages and I dont seen them needing replacing.TerryG wrote:They look quite neat, Fortunately for what I am doing I have a range of various sized magnets which are doing the job (2x 25lb, 3x 50lb and 2x 75lb). A couple of large hammers come in handy when fine adjustment is required
If I have to do much more of this then they look like they could be a good investment.
How well do they last?
very quick and easy to use
Kev