A Landy is reborn
Re: A Landy is reborn
Interesting. I've used Paddock for Dolomite stuff for a good while and they've certainly proved reliable but I didn't realise that Britpart was sold anywhere other than MM 4x4. Apologies to MM for this but I'd been led to believe that it was their own brand.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
I suspect BritPart are selling to quite a few traders/retailers now; I've bought all sorts of odds and ends from various places that have come in their wrappers (eBay is too handy!). While Paddocks say who made the parts they sell in the product descriptions (or the ones I've seen), many eBay sellers don't; so it can be hard to avoid them!
As I wrote, I was impressed with Paddock's service; I bought something else from them not long ago (windscreen-bulkhead seal I think) and that arrived quickly too. They will probably get a lot more trade from me (I keep finding stuff that has been bodged by the previous "restorer").
As I wrote, I was impressed with Paddock's service; I bought something else from them not long ago (windscreen-bulkhead seal I think) and that arrived quickly too. They will probably get a lot more trade from me (I keep finding stuff that has been bodged by the previous "restorer").
Re: A Landy is reborn
Yes, Paddocks are good. I found that they were especially adept at finding alternative part numbers that they could supply when the original one as found in the factory parts book showed up as NLA.
Example: Dolomite rear auto transmission cradle bush showed up as NLA from everyone else, Paddocks however were willing and able to confirm my suspicion that the bush was in fact also used in Stags as a rear suspension bush, one was sent and of course fitted perfectly. They go the extra yard to be helpful, shame more sellers of spares don't share their approach!
Sorry, O/T I know.
Example: Dolomite rear auto transmission cradle bush showed up as NLA from everyone else, Paddocks however were willing and able to confirm my suspicion that the bush was in fact also used in Stags as a rear suspension bush, one was sent and of course fitted perfectly. They go the extra yard to be helpful, shame more sellers of spares don't share their approach!
Sorry, O/T I know.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
I have said it before, but it's worth repeating - always check what you buy on eBay! I ended up with some "Full nuts/lock nuts" because I didn't read the description properly (and I have always thought that lock nuts were half the thickness of full nuts!). The seller was very polite and I ordered the correct "Nylock" nuts from him this morning! I also got some boring stuff from other sellers, so the postie had to work today!
I spent the morning setting up the drill vice (it's actually a much fancier thing) and had a fight with an M6 bolt for some unknown reason! After sorting that, I drilled a 3/4" hole into the new shock absorber mounting bracket and then gave it and the "mounting tube" a couple of coats of weld-through primer. That should mean that I can get them welded together tomorrow and make some plates: one to reinforce the tube inside the box section and two to cover the ends of the box section.
After our afternoon potter (the poor dog can't go far or fast now), I took the ply floor out of the tub and was somewhat depressed - there is some work to do to tidy the original floor (now there's a surprise!) and the ply is wet and starting to rot. However I discovered that there aren't plates over the holes in the floor and could have a look at the top of the chassis where the original shock absorber mount had been:
It's strange how a camera can make things look worse than they are! This shouldn't take a lot of tidying up, though I may make the hole in the floor a little larger to the back of the tub (bottom of photo) and then I can easily get to the sound metal when I weld it up! The photo shows all the rust - and the new mount should cover it nicely (or cover the hole left when I take the rusty metal out).
The inside of the chassis rail didn't look bad either - the camera says something else, but it's all pretty sound (though needs tidying up). the plate for the old shock absorber mounting is the bit below the cable tie:
The nearside mount is rather rough to look at, but I did give it a good scrape and poke (with a hammer) and it isn't beyond restoration - some cleaning off and a bit of anti-rust paint will make it look a lot better.
I spent the morning setting up the drill vice (it's actually a much fancier thing) and had a fight with an M6 bolt for some unknown reason! After sorting that, I drilled a 3/4" hole into the new shock absorber mounting bracket and then gave it and the "mounting tube" a couple of coats of weld-through primer. That should mean that I can get them welded together tomorrow and make some plates: one to reinforce the tube inside the box section and two to cover the ends of the box section.
After our afternoon potter (the poor dog can't go far or fast now), I took the ply floor out of the tub and was somewhat depressed - there is some work to do to tidy the original floor (now there's a surprise!) and the ply is wet and starting to rot. However I discovered that there aren't plates over the holes in the floor and could have a look at the top of the chassis where the original shock absorber mount had been:
It's strange how a camera can make things look worse than they are! This shouldn't take a lot of tidying up, though I may make the hole in the floor a little larger to the back of the tub (bottom of photo) and then I can easily get to the sound metal when I weld it up! The photo shows all the rust - and the new mount should cover it nicely (or cover the hole left when I take the rusty metal out).
The inside of the chassis rail didn't look bad either - the camera says something else, but it's all pretty sound (though needs tidying up). the plate for the old shock absorber mounting is the bit below the cable tie:
The nearside mount is rather rough to look at, but I did give it a good scrape and poke (with a hammer) and it isn't beyond restoration - some cleaning off and a bit of anti-rust paint will make it look a lot better.
Re: A Landy is reborn
Mine was similar inside, I used the vacuum cleaner to suck all the loose rust out, and then waxed it afterwards, the great thing about the landie chassis is it all flat 2mm sheet steel, armed with a mig, some sheet steel and enough time just about anything can be repaired.
If you want to save time the Britpart chassis sections are generally not too bad and dirt cheap too.
Kevin
If you want to save time the Britpart chassis sections are generally not too bad and dirt cheap too.
Kevin
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
I am not amused - my other punch (a 6" screwdriver) has found holes in the NS chassis just below the shock absorber mounting - obviously, a hammer isn't always the best way of finding weak metal! I can't see them, but a feel around with a finger suggests that they are similar to the ones on the OS. To add to my annoyance, I managed to clean a bit more on the top of the OS chassis rail - ahead of the holes in the picture and discover that what I thought was part of the original mount was actually the end of a patch that reaches to the next cross-member! I don't like patching on patches, so some more "technical" welding is required and I need to take the hole in the tub forward (and back) to make a decent job of it.
So, I am seriously thinking of taking the tub off! The hardest bit will be getting the hardtop off as my lifting gear might not (ie won't) reach far enough over the Landy - I've tried that before (sort of):
There again, the big tractor hasn't been started for six months (though I charged the battery a couple of months ago) and is in dire need of engine and gearbox oil changes.
If I do take the tub off, I reckon a good morning will see both shock absorbers mounted securely (I may even make a new bracket for the NS one) and, as I want to fir a standard diesel tank instead of the "plastic" one that is supported by four lengths of threaded rod, taking the seat base out will be easier - as will fitting a new front tank cross-member.
On a more positive note, the MIG is working well - I managed to repair one of the neighbour's brackets for his hanging baskets! However, their ironing board needs the other side sorting now - I did one side a couple of years ago!
I was also able to get my new shock absorber mounting welded up and had hoped to fit it this afternoon (with a view to reassembling it tomorrow). My welding is so good that I won't post a photo of the bracket until it is all back together!! I should have put the Golf outside and made more space to work, with better lighting to see what I was doing!
So, I am seriously thinking of taking the tub off! The hardest bit will be getting the hardtop off as my lifting gear might not (ie won't) reach far enough over the Landy - I've tried that before (sort of):
There again, the big tractor hasn't been started for six months (though I charged the battery a couple of months ago) and is in dire need of engine and gearbox oil changes.
If I do take the tub off, I reckon a good morning will see both shock absorbers mounted securely (I may even make a new bracket for the NS one) and, as I want to fir a standard diesel tank instead of the "plastic" one that is supported by four lengths of threaded rod, taking the seat base out will be easier - as will fitting a new front tank cross-member.
On a more positive note, the MIG is working well - I managed to repair one of the neighbour's brackets for his hanging baskets! However, their ironing board needs the other side sorting now - I did one side a couple of years ago!
I was also able to get my new shock absorber mounting welded up and had hoped to fit it this afternoon (with a view to reassembling it tomorrow). My welding is so good that I won't post a photo of the bracket until it is all back together!! I should have put the Golf outside and made more space to work, with better lighting to see what I was doing!
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
Not a lot done as such, but I put the u-bolts back on the spring and then put the back wheel back on and got the beast on the ground again. I was ready to put it in the garden so that I could take the tub off. One slight snag - because the Landy was level again, I couldn't open the door wide enough to get in the dashed thing! So, after a climb through from the back, I reconnected the battery. Dammit - the spanner was on the workbench and not in it's usual place - in the door pocket! I was lucky though - it fired up without problems!
Today has seen the big tractor move after standing idle since November. I had charged the battery in the middle of April, so reconnected it. I was a bit surprised when it started on its usual "fourth bang", though not surprised to find the clutch had stuck! I started it in reverse and, but the time I had got out of the shed, the clutch was free again.
I spent a happy half hour driving along on flat-spotted tyres and then changed the engine oil. I think it was about due - it has only been changed twice in the last six or seven years!
I'm hopeful that it will rain as forecast tomorrow for two reasons: 1/ the water butt is empty and 2/ I will have to start taking the tub off if it is dry!
Today has seen the big tractor move after standing idle since November. I had charged the battery in the middle of April, so reconnected it. I was a bit surprised when it started on its usual "fourth bang", though not surprised to find the clutch had stuck! I started it in reverse and, but the time I had got out of the shed, the clutch was free again.
I spent a happy half hour driving along on flat-spotted tyres and then changed the engine oil. I think it was about due - it has only been changed twice in the last six or seven years!
I'm hopeful that it will rain as forecast tomorrow for two reasons: 1/ the water butt is empty and 2/ I will have to start taking the tub off if it is dry!
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
I had a day off yesterday and fitted a couple of doors onto the (new) kitchen cupboards. They need a little planing and/or sanding to make them a neat fit, but at least you can't see the junk now!
It was drier today, I had a set to and undid anything that looked remotely like a fixing for the hardtop. The feller who rebuilt the Landy must have had a sense of humour: he used metric stuff here and there, but not any old metric stuff: it was the longest he could get hold of and all painted blue! Then, just as I thought I had got the better of him and removed most of the nuts and bolts, I found he'd throw in an odd imperial fixing! Yes, it started raining after half an hour and it was half bast twelve by the time I discovered that one of the "special" studs was well and truly rusted. I should have known something was wrong: there were metric nuts and bolts either "side" of the stud. However, the dog wanted her walk, so a delay was in order.
After waking from my after-lunch nap (never intentional!), I had the bright idea of using my mini drill (A B&D "Wizard" - a handier thing than a Dremel) and the slitting discs to slice through the nut - it's in a dished bit of the corner bracing of the hardtop, so a hacksaw or angle grinder couldn't get near . After using about ten discs, I got the hammer and chisel out and persuaded the washer below the nut to come out and, as the hole in the bracing bit is larger than the nut, the remains fell out with out problem! I took it into the garage and put it in the vice. Two seconds with a pair of Mole grips on the butchered nut and yes - the stud's thread stripped!
So that's another job to do: the only "special" fixings I have seen are about £18 on the bay. I think a length of threaded rod and some 2mm plate, a bit of drill and lathe work followed by a tickle with the MIG will work out cheaper!
It was drier today, I had a set to and undid anything that looked remotely like a fixing for the hardtop. The feller who rebuilt the Landy must have had a sense of humour: he used metric stuff here and there, but not any old metric stuff: it was the longest he could get hold of and all painted blue! Then, just as I thought I had got the better of him and removed most of the nuts and bolts, I found he'd throw in an odd imperial fixing! Yes, it started raining after half an hour and it was half bast twelve by the time I discovered that one of the "special" studs was well and truly rusted. I should have known something was wrong: there were metric nuts and bolts either "side" of the stud. However, the dog wanted her walk, so a delay was in order.
After waking from my after-lunch nap (never intentional!), I had the bright idea of using my mini drill (A B&D "Wizard" - a handier thing than a Dremel) and the slitting discs to slice through the nut - it's in a dished bit of the corner bracing of the hardtop, so a hacksaw or angle grinder couldn't get near . After using about ten discs, I got the hammer and chisel out and persuaded the washer below the nut to come out and, as the hole in the bracing bit is larger than the nut, the remains fell out with out problem! I took it into the garage and put it in the vice. Two seconds with a pair of Mole grips on the butchered nut and yes - the stud's thread stripped!
So that's another job to do: the only "special" fixings I have seen are about £18 on the bay. I think a length of threaded rod and some 2mm plate, a bit of drill and lathe work followed by a tickle with the MIG will work out cheaper!
Re: A Landy is reborn
Threaded stud, a few nuts and penny washers make a acceptable replacement for the hard top fixings. My front ones are replaced with m12 bolt and also hold a seat belt retractor bracket.
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: A Landy is reborn
Quite true, but I do like to have things "right" and, as I have the machinery (and time), it makes a nice change to work on clean metal and make something that doesn't require vast amounts of rust removal! As it happens, there are two of the "special" studs to make and, as a traditional bloke, I like my Imperial (or to be pedantic, Unified) threads!!
One more plug for Paddocks - the errant shock absorber bush arrived this morning; I got an email from them yesterday or the day before that said they were sending another and that I should keep the wrong one (I offered to post it back - honesty is the best policy and all that!).
Thinking of doing it right, I also lashed out and ordered a "proper" exhaust to suit the Montego/Land Rover combination. The one that's in has two lengths of flexi pipe and the original LR silencer (could even be from 1971
), with a few home made straps. It hangs down rather too much for something that is supposed to be able to go off-road: almost as low as the Golf's exhaust!! Apparently the new one will be 2" (or 2 1/4") bore throughout - that should let the turbo work properly and might improve the "flat spot" when accelerating. As it is at the moment, the tractors can get off the mark a lot quicker than the Landy and the Golf is like a sports car in comparison!
One more plug for Paddocks - the errant shock absorber bush arrived this morning; I got an email from them yesterday or the day before that said they were sending another and that I should keep the wrong one (I offered to post it back - honesty is the best policy and all that!).
Thinking of doing it right, I also lashed out and ordered a "proper" exhaust to suit the Montego/Land Rover combination. The one that's in has two lengths of flexi pipe and the original LR silencer (could even be from 1971
), with a few home made straps. It hangs down rather too much for something that is supposed to be able to go off-road: almost as low as the Golf's exhaust!! Apparently the new one will be 2" (or 2 1/4") bore throughout - that should let the turbo work properly and might improve the "flat spot" when accelerating. As it is at the moment, the tractors can get off the mark a lot quicker than the Landy and the Golf is like a sports car in comparison!