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hi everyone
i have just passed my driving test i am looking to buy classic car like a hillman super minx , Wolseley 16/60 any more ideas
also any idea where i can hold of one kent
plus what ou think of this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT
many thanks
martin
Riley 1.5/Wolsely 1500 were two I considered when getting mine - but I ended up with a Spitfire
Check out Young Guns Classics - it's an online car club for young people who've got (or want) old cars. Big variety in them too; there's a Rover P6 2000SC Auto (which is surprisingly reliable and economical), an Austin 1100, two Spitfires, two MGB GTs, a couple of Land Rovers, MG Midgets, Minis etc.
Make sure you join a specialist car club too - you get cheaper insurance!
A late MGB is pretty good and fairly cheap too. That's where I started, I knew it could be used without having to worry about parts availability. Would also suggest spits and dollys, or a TR7 while they're still cheap.
Aar0sc wrote:
Check out Young Guns Classics - it's an online car club for young people who've got (or want) old cars. Big variety in them too; there's a Rover P6 2000SC Auto (which is surprisingly reliable and economical), an Austin 1100, two Spitfires, two MGB GTs, a couple of Land Rovers, MG Midgets, Minis etc.
Aar0sc wrote:
Check out Young Guns Classics - it's an online car club for young people who've got (or want) old cars. Big variety in them too; there's a Rover P6 2000SC Auto (which is surprisingly reliable and economical), an Austin 1100, two Spitfires, two MGB GTs, a couple of Land Rovers, MG Midgets, Minis etc.
And a Jaaaaag
Yep, we've got Kamil and his Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag
Also a Moggy Minor
Cars really don't come much more straightforward than the Minor, they are also blessed with one of the best networks of specialist parts suppliers and repairers who actually understand their particular foibles. Not that they have any real vices, hence their enduring popularity throughout the last 6 decades.
As a first car for a younger driver, there are few more suitable ways to learn both how to drive properly and to maintain your own car.
I've yet to meet any Minor owner who regretted their choice of car.
BUT.....
If you want something a little larger that'll still be affordable to run, then the 16/60 or any of its BMC relations is an entirely sensible choice, if a little expensive nowadays.
J "Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
I had new cars for my 1st couple of cars but when I was 20 dad let me use his rubber bumper mgb roadster for the summer and it simply was the best car ever. Bright red, no depreciation never going to get points speeding and insurance even at that age that was only a couple of months finance payment on the new cars.
Anything like that would be great, spitfire, spridget, e type roadster (we don't know his budget lol) you will learn to drive safely, respecting the car and other road users, parts are cheap, you are showing you arent following the crowd and when the sun is out stick the shades on and become a babe magnet.................
Matt
1962 Triumph Herald 1200 Coupe
1970 Triumph Herald 1360 Convertible
1978 Reliant Scimitar SS1
1986 Mini City
1990 Mini Equinox
1969 Hillman Imp
1969 Morris Minor 1000
Scarab Formula Vee race car
5x racing karts, Rotax, pro, 100cc and gearbox.
VW Beetle has a cracking spares supply and is quite a good motorway cruiser for a classic. It is a relatively easy to get classic car insurance. My daughter (22) pays about £280 fully comp for hers (first car) on an agreed value policy.
I had a mog as my first car, i still have it! It's a great little car, REALLY easy to drive, great fun in the wet. The only thing i would suggest is having disc brakes fitted to the front. I still have drums as i do so few miles but as an every day car I would want more stopping power.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.