Hi all,
I've fitted a complete new clutch (spring type),new master cylinder and repair kit to slave cylinder on my Series Rapier and bled the system but the clutch will not operate.It appears that the operating rod on the arm to the release bearing meets the resistance of the springs on the cover plate and then just gives up and will not progress to realse the clutch.The operating rod is non adjustable,correct as per parts book. Any suggestions.
Regards
johnc
p.s.
I've operated the release arm by levering it and it does travel adequately to compress the springs on the clutch cover.
clutch problem rootes
Re: clutch problem rootes
Hi
Maybe your "new" master cylinder is just bypassing fluid rather than pumping - it has been known for new cylinders to be wrongly assembled at manufacture or the item has been on the shelf too long and the seals have perished.
I would give the clutch pedal a few pumps with the bleed screw open and see if there is obvious pressure in the outflow, if not, you know it's duff
If it's OK then that leaves the slave cylinder, does it move with no load? If not, that needs investigating, maybe the feed drilling to the piston chamber is blocked?
Maybe your "new" master cylinder is just bypassing fluid rather than pumping - it has been known for new cylinders to be wrongly assembled at manufacture or the item has been on the shelf too long and the seals have perished.
I would give the clutch pedal a few pumps with the bleed screw open and see if there is obvious pressure in the outflow, if not, you know it's duff
If it's OK then that leaves the slave cylinder, does it move with no load? If not, that needs investigating, maybe the feed drilling to the piston chamber is blocked?-
mr rusty
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Re: clutch problem rootes
The other issue could be the new master cylinder is incorrect- this issue has arisen in the Triumph world where master cylinders are being sold on ebay as suitable but the bore size is wrong and the leverage isn't there. Provided it's been bled properly and there's no air in the system and no leaks anywhere it's probably the wrong m/c.
If the bore is too small when you push the pedal the same distance you normally would, and with clutches that's generally all the way, then less fluid will be transferred to the slave and it won't move so far.....I would make sure you have the correct m/c before doing anything else.
If the bore is too small when you push the pedal the same distance you normally would, and with clutches that's generally all the way, then less fluid will be transferred to the slave and it won't move so far.....I would make sure you have the correct m/c before doing anything else.
1968 Triumph Vitesse Mk1 2 litre convertible, Junior Miss rusty has a 1989 998cc Mk2 Metro, Mrs Rusty has a modern common rail diesel thing.
Re: clutch problem rootes
Thanks for that guys I'll give the suggestions a try.
Regards
johnc
Regards
johnc
Re: clutch problem rootes
G'day, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. But having worked for a N.W London Rootes garage in the 60s and owned a Mk 7, Mk 8 and 3c Minx as well as a 3a Gazelle at various times, as well as attending to AA/RAC callout problems in north London, I thought I would comment on Johnc's query.
From you description I would suggest that the hydraulics may not be your problem. The symptoms you describe match that of having installed the clutch disc the wrong way around. This may well be a blow to your pride but I would suggest you give it some further investigation.
Pavel
From you description I would suggest that the hydraulics may not be your problem. The symptoms you describe match that of having installed the clutch disc the wrong way around. This may well be a blow to your pride but I would suggest you give it some further investigation.
Pavel
Re: clutch problem rootes
Hi Pavel,
Thanks for the input.If the plate was the wrong way round would I still be able to operate the release lever and depress the springs? I have done this by levering the arm against the bellhousing.
Regards
johnc
Thanks for the input.If the plate was the wrong way round would I still be able to operate the release lever and depress the springs? I have done this by levering the arm against the bellhousing.
Regards
johnc
Re: clutch problem rootes
In general your clutch pedal will feel like the brake pedal -- after it takes up the slack in the cylinders and linkages it becomes firm. In practice the hub of the disc fits inside pressure plate and in operation allows about 3/8 inch compression of the pressure plate thus disengaging the drive. Fitting the disc the wrong way around takes up just about all of the available movement when the gearbox is bolted up.
There is a way of testing this, but it is fraught with DANGER.
Whilst the engine can be started without it being in gear, in the event of a wrongly fitted disc, the engine can usually be started with it in gear [preferably 3rd] as the pressure plate is not now able to apply full clamping pressure. In this mode the car will usually creep forward or back, depending on the gear selection [hence the DANGER] but by using the foot brake movement of the car will stop. With the brakes applied the engine can be slightly revved thus confirming clutch slip [plus the smell of burnt linings].
The DANGER, of course, is that the car will run into the wall or the door or anything else in the way if you lose control. Always have your hand on the ignition key.
Pavel
There is a way of testing this, but it is fraught with DANGER.
Whilst the engine can be started without it being in gear, in the event of a wrongly fitted disc, the engine can usually be started with it in gear [preferably 3rd] as the pressure plate is not now able to apply full clamping pressure. In this mode the car will usually creep forward or back, depending on the gear selection [hence the DANGER] but by using the foot brake movement of the car will stop. With the brakes applied the engine can be slightly revved thus confirming clutch slip [plus the smell of burnt linings].
The DANGER, of course, is that the car will run into the wall or the door or anything else in the way if you lose control. Always have your hand on the ignition key.
Pavel
Re: clutch problem rootes
Hi all,
Problem solved
I reversed the bleed screw and pipe connections on the slave cylinder as a result of advice from another forum (bleed screw above pipe) rebled system, added a couple of washers between cylinder and bellhousing to increase travel of pushrod a tad and voila all is well!
regards
johnc
Problem solved
I reversed the bleed screw and pipe connections on the slave cylinder as a result of advice from another forum (bleed screw above pipe) rebled system, added a couple of washers between cylinder and bellhousing to increase travel of pushrod a tad and voila all is well!regards
johnc