LPG issue with idle in gear on an automatic box

[TerryG]

I had seen that but as there are no details on the kit itself I left well alone.
The big issue for me is that some of the front end kits piggyback on to the standard EFI for the injector timing. Unfortunately the Lucas EFi on my RR fires left right rather than 1, 2, 3, 4, etc so it does not provide a coherent signal for one of the multi-points to pick up on. The other issue with my very old school EFi is the lack of cam position sensor (unless you count the pickup in the distributor which is less cam position sensor, more random spark generator). This means that either I need to upgrade the standard ECU to a megasquirt plus some re-wiring or another comparable aftermarket system or go for a more expensive LPG kit that comes complete with the required sensors and mounting stuff.
Without knowing exactly what it is, (or even if it is a multi-point as I can't see any injectors in the (RUBBISH) pics) I had left it alone.
Tinley will provide me with a front end only kit (no replacement plumbing or mounting bits) for £558 but if I budget in for new pipe work from my current tank, replacing all the P clips and having the tank tested and re-certified it comes in a smidge shy of £700.
On top of that I would also need to purchase another intake manifold to drill and tap (as I wouldn't do it to the one that is currently on the car), coolant, gaskets, etc. I don't think I would have much change from £1000 all done.

[Richard Moss]

Have you been getting any backfiring? If the LPG mixture is weak then the chances of backfiring are increased

[TerryG]

Service kit fitted to my vaporiser, new LPG filter, another set of new plugs, leads, cap, arm, coil and checking all the low tension wires which were all fine.
The problem remains, It has now spread on to the petrol system so something is definitely wrong. I left the car idling on the drive for an hour or so while I cut up some firewood to get it nice and hot. It is sounding worse, The problem is no-longer just with idle, it is all through the range running with at least one pot down. It is bad enough that I can feel it through the steering wheel. After letting it cool, I appear to have lost about 2l of coolant. No puddles under the car, no weeping joins. I pulled the plugs and there is some rust on the plug in cylinder 8. That is impressive as it has only been in for a week and done about 80 miles.
Fingers crossed it is a head gasket and not a slipped liner. I hate using bodge products but I am going to chuck some K-Seal in it and see if the problem goes away until the summer.

[rich.]

i may get banned for this.... have you thought of fitting a diesel??

[TerryG]

I have indeed. I even went as far as getting quotes for the conversion kit to fit both the 3.0 SDV6 and the 3.6 TDV8. After the Mrs found me collapsed over the computer from shock at how much fitting a modern engine costs (think similar money to a 3 year old mondeo) I decided to stick with a "proper" engine A pushrod v8 may not be the most efficient thing in the world but the sound is glorious.
One of the reasons for getting started with Range Rovers was they were the cheapest way in to rover v8 ownership and now I have had one, I had to get two, then three
I would love a P5B coupe and a Rover 3500 Vanden Plas EFi (which I would have to try hard and avoid the temptation to uprate it to a 3.9 with hotwire rather than the 3.5 flapper), I have driven various TVRs with the rover v8, the sound is amazing but the build quality of "we have run out of screws so I used prittstick instead" really turns me off them. Saying that LR isn't all that much better.

[rich.]

would a dicsovery engine fit? you can pick those up for reasonable money...

[TerryG]

The v8 from a disco would fit, mine is only 4 years old with 30,000 miles or so on it. unless it has dropped a liner, it is worth fixing.

I had the cooling system pressure tested today and sniffed for exhaust gas, it is good. no idea where 2l of coolant has gone but that is not the issue also no idea why one plug looked slightly rusty. It hasn't happened again with (more) new plugs so may have just been a dodgy one or it may have got damp in storage without me noticing the rust when fitting it.
I have gone over the whole top end of the engine with carb cleaner (it smells "nice" when you get it on your hot manifolds) looking for vacuum leaks again, a new set of luminition leads, 3 different brands of rotor arm, 2 caps. even tried re-fitting the factory ignition amp rather than the after market one i have. Still have a slightly rough idle when hot but not when cold.
I have just ordered a new bosch coil as the one in there is probably 5 years old and the spare one I thought I had is dead. After fitting that and going for a drive, the car conked out about 150ft from home. Just as well I went the route that meant it was down hill coming back!
Once my compression tester has been returned I will run that around and see if anything more serious is wrong.

Money, Money, Money, must be funny, in a rich mans world.

btw, when checking prices for leads on line, I found the most expensive HT leads in the world:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-PERFORMA ... 0464349709

Mine cost £55+VAT, I thought they were a bit expensive!

[rich.]

i was thinking of the tdi things..

[TerryG]

They can be made to fit if I cut the engine mountings from the chassis of a disco 300tdi and weld them on to mine but personally, I don't like the 200/300 tdis. they are too agricultural.

[JPB]

too agricultural..

It's a Range Rover not a bleedin' Citroen DS. How about a nice BMW as an engine donor? That 330D is very potent and smooth.

Or the 2.5 litre 3 cylinder unit from the Fordson Super Dexta would fit with acres to spare and is more in keeping since it's also from a farmyard appliance.