After I finish the paintwork on the singer, I have a new front and side window seal(s) to fit (I am leaving the old one in place but cut back as part of the masking up process for the paintwork).
My question is:
Do I use something like tiger seal or similar to ensure a good weather tight seal is produced?
Do I use some sealant between seal/glass and seal/bodywork?
Many thanks for looking
Kev
Sealing New Window Seals
- Grumpy Northener
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:26 am
- Location: Hampshire UK
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
Hi Kev - These are all in rubber so you need a proper windscreen sealer that will remain flexible and move / expand / contract with rubber & glass - Don't use silicone based or bonding / glue based products - I use Abromast Autograde which is specially made for sealing traditional windscreen rubbers (use both glass & body side) its available through Rejel - http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/windscreen-sealer.aspx - but you may find it elsewhere - I spent several years in the automotive glazing industry so if you have any further questions / issues just post them up -
Cheers - Chris
Cheers - Chris
1937 Jowett 8 - Project - in less pieces than the Jupiter
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
Thanks for that GN, now if you could just pop up and fit it for me id be ever so grateful!Grumpy Northener wrote:Hi Kev - These are all in rubber so you need a proper windscreen sealer that will remain flexible and move / expand / contract with rubber & glass - Don't use silicone based or bonding / glue based products - I use Abromast Autograde which is specially made for sealing traditional windscreen rubbers (use both glass & body side) its available through Rejel - http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/windscreen-sealer.aspx - but you may find it elsewhere - I spent several years in the automotive glazing industry so if you have any further questions / issues just post them up -
Cheers - Chris

kev
-
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:55 am
- Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
From my own experiences it is best to make sure the surround is clean and then fit the glass with a decent quality seal of the correct size (laminated and toughened screens sometimes need slightly different seals even with the same make and model of car). The filler strip (if required) should also be a decent quality one of the correct size. This should prevent most leaks. Also, bear in mind that some leaks are wrongly blamed on the windscreen rubber so make sure water isn't getting in from somewhere else.
Toledo Man
1972 Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L)
2008 Citroen Grand C4 Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB)
1972 Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L)
2008 Citroen Grand C4 Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB)
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
my only concern with using some sealant is it getting onto the cord that i will be using to fit the screen?
im sure all will become apparent!
kev
im sure all will become apparent!
kev
-
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:55 am
- Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
If you do use sealant then apply it once the windscreen is fitted. When I swapped the windscreen on my Dolomite, I had to struggle to get the old one out. Somebody used a load of mastic in an attempt to stop it leaking. Once it was out I cleaned the surround which was rust free (something else to watch out for) and I fitted a decent used seal (which came out of my Toledo). I used some washing line (plastic coated steel cable) to pull the inner lip of the seal into place and I used a brand new finishing strip and it has been fine ever since.
Toledo Man
1972 Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L)
2008 Citroen Grand C4 Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB)
1972 Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L)
2008 Citroen Grand C4 Picasso 2.0 HDi Exclusive (MA08 WCL)
1995 BMW 318i (M265 PNC)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB)
- Grumpy Northener
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:26 am
- Location: Hampshire UK
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
Kev - Just for clarity - Place an old blanket over a couple of timber bearers in order to support the screen inside up - fit the rubber around the screen if at low height - kneel down and use your knees to support the screen whilst you place the rubber over the edge of the glass furthest away from you then continue to work around the screen fitting the rubber - the better way is to place the bearers on a work mate type stand and work around the screen at waist height using your waist line / body to support the screen whilst you work over it - once the rubber is in place a thin but supple cord around the rubber channel that lips over the aperture - starting & finishing just beyond one of the bottom corners of the screen - now between the outer edge of the rubber and the section that sits into the aperture apply a moderate bead of windscreen sealer around the rubber - then place the windscreen & rubber into the aperture (ensure that the aperture is clean & free of old sealer) from the inside pull the cord gently whilst keeping one hand on the outside of the screen as by pulling the cord the windscreen will be easing out of the aperture on the roof line - work across the bottom of the screen lipping the rubber over the aperture - you may have push the rubber lip down over the aperture with your fingers - maintain pressure at the top of the screen to prevent it from lifting out as you draw the cord around the aperture - a little pressure on the outside of the screen will help as you work around it - always use the palm of your hand - once fully lipped over the aperture the glass to rubber can be sealed with the sealer gun - finally you can now install the windscreen finishers / trims - unsure if you have chrome trims that lip into the windscreen rubber or if they just sit over the rubber - let me look at your pics on your thread and I will come back to you on the easy way of installing these
It may look daunting but it is very straight forward - just take your time - any issues and I am a PM away - Chris

I spent several years in the automotive glazing market and was responsible in overseeing the fitment of several hundred thousand automotive glass fitments and never came across separate rubbers for toughened glass vs laminated glass - the odd modified rubber on some models but this was more to do with face lifting model ranges and installing different trims / fillers etc(laminated and toughened screens sometimes need slightly different seals even with the same make and model of car)
1937 Jowett 8 - Project - in less pieces than the Jupiter
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles
Re: Sealing New Window Seals
thanks chris, all very straightforward i think.
do i need one of them special chrome insert trim tools?
kev
do i need one of them special chrome insert trim tools?
kev