Post pictures and stories about your cars both present and past. Also post up "blogs" on your restoration projects - the more pictures the better! Note: blog-type threads often get few replies, but are often read by many members, and provide interest and motivation to other enthusiasts so don't be disappointed if you don't get many replies.
tractorman wrote:While the picture shows the spring, it doesn't show how close the back of the spring is to the crossmember!
It should be close. I've just measured from the centre of the bush to the rear face of the crossmember and it's 18cm. There's only a gap of about 1cm between the front of the crossmember and the back of the spring hanger bracket. On kstrutt's photo that gap looks longer than mine.
These are on a 88" chassis that I believe is a genuine Land Rover replacement one, not a copy.
(My 109" chassis measures 48cm from the centre of the bush to the rear face of the crossmember.)
To clarify, the bush I'm talking about is where the top of the rear shackles are bolted through. If extra long springs are fitted, then the shackles will be angled backwards more than normal, bring the rear of the springs even further back. It might then need longer shackles to prevent contact with the chassis (?).
Thanks for the pics and advice, it's all most welcome and much appreciated! I suspect I'll never be happy until I pull a wheel off and have a proper look at it! I gather rain is forecast for Wednesday, so I will try and do outside jobs tomorrow and move the LR into the garage for a while on Wednesday. It will have to go in the Golf's side of the garage for three good reasons: it's too long for the tractor's side, it'll be easier to work on if it is reversed in and, most importantly, I don't want my nearly-restored tractor to get wet!
I have a good sized pile of stuff to fit eventually: seat belts and mounts (I gather that I will need to weld some brackets to the chassis for the "buckle" mounts - another reason for taking the tub off), mud flaps, fuel tank (though I need to buy and fit a front outrigger if I use the existing chassis) and various switches - the washers are on a pull-on/push-off switch, not a sprung one and the wiper switch is in the wrong place. I'm not even thinking about the radio and speakers at the moment, partly because the wiring is a nightmare, with what looks like a master switch just in front of the brake servo (the battery is under the passenger seat) and part of Montego cold start panel on the bulkhead - and I suspect it has only one self-tapper holding it in place - or a cable tie!
I've found the rad fan switch on the side of the radiator, so I may take that out and see if it works - it must be better than me forgetting to flick the switch on the dash! I'll flush the rad and put new anti-freeze in if I remember to get some tomorrow! I need to do the tractors too - I don't think "2-year" antifreeze should be in for four years!
tractorman wrote:I don't want my nearly-restored tractor to get wet!
Isn't that what tractors are for?
At some point in history someone has replaced some of the brake lines on my RR and despite there being perfectly good clips they opted for cable ties around the chassis. There seems to be something about land rovers and cable ties.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
When you do finally get under the Landy, the first thing to measure is that both sides are the same length. As long as it's all symmetrical, you can stop worrying as much.
That is a good point, the ony mounts which really matter are the front ones on both axles as these dictate the axle loaction fore / aft unless the rear ones are out massively side to side they will have very little effect. Measure the distance between the front and rears then the diagonals if they are all close then you are OK, I do this by parking it on a level surface, taping 4 squares of card to the floor one under each spring mount, then drop a plumb line down from the centre of the bolt head and mark the spot drive the vehicle slowly out the way and then take your measurements.
When I bought mine one of the front ones was an inch higher than the other I fitted a new dumb iron to address this but it made no differnece to how it drove, just made the bumper level
Just remember that the driver's side of a series vehicle should sit slightly higher than the passenger side. The leafs on that side are slightly more curved to compensate for a fat b*****d behind the wheel.
It's not unknown for an unwary person to confuse left and right
Landrovers and Welding go together like Bread and Butter. And in the wet they are about as structurally sound
I have got no further - apart from buying all sorts of bits and bobs (the latest being a wiper/washer switch!).
The V5 arrived this morning, with the correct fuel type and engine number. I was beginning to get a little concerned - it's five weeks since I sent it off and I've usually received new V5s within a month. I suppose "Privatisation" has something to do with the delay!
The Landy is still parked beside the tractor/trailer shed - and that is taking a heck of a long time to get built! It rained heavily last weekend and I couldn't see the holes I was digging (by hand)! It has been dry for three or four days now and I was able to walk on the soil around the shed without sinking yesterday, so I could actually do a little work on it!
I did a silly the other week - brushed some of the front chassis and took a couple of photos of what looked like a chassis number. Blowing the picture up revealed what looked like a "5". Hmm, that isn't on the V5 - or the chassis plate! I hope it's just a swirl from the wire brush because getting the grinder in won't be too easy and letter punch sets are not cheap
Just get the mig in there and patch it, problem solved
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
The thought had passed my mind - though there's that much thick black waxy stuff underneath that I'm a little nervous of welding it - which is part of the reason that I haven't bothered with the shock absorber mount yet! I suspect the seat belt mounting brackets need have plates welded to the chassis which could be fun! Then there's the eBay bargain fuel tank (and a front mounting outrigger for it) to sort and it might be roadworthy!
I wonder how long I can make the tractor shed job last - it is getting colder out there, so that's an excuse not to do much at a time! It also means that I have some anti-freeze to change as the big tractor has had its two-year anti-freeze for three years and the Landy is an unknown quantity. I gather the Prima engine suffers corrosion/erosion on the back of the block/head and needs 50-50 anti-freeze-water (and the old two year stuff too!). I just hope I'm not too late!!
tractorman wrote:I did a silly the other week - brushed some of the front chassis and took a couple of photos of what looked like a chassis number. Blowing the picture up revealed what looked like a "5". Hmm, that isn't on the V5 - or the chassis plate!
Well there's a surprise.
Was the seller a trader? Perhaps you should have a hard think about whether you're really happy with your purchase. I know it's been a while, but you should have the law on your side.
