Morris1000 spongy brakes

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Pilkie
Posts: 149
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:41 pm
Location: North Bristol

Re: Morris1000 spongy brakes

#11 Post by Pilkie »

Young Farmer wrote: I was given a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes but that was drawing a massive amount of air past the thread of the bleed nipple. Possibly could have stopped that by wrapping some ptfe tape around the nipples. I have had a look in the manual for my Wolseley 1500 ( a big minor but similar braking system ) and that recommends that the brakes are slackened right off to compress the piston into the cylinders before bleeding. I will let you know how we get on.
I had a problem bleeding the brakes on my 1954 MGTF with a vacuum pump with excess air being sucked through!
Yes a wrap of PTFE tape cures the air past thread problem!
The master is also on the same level as the drums,so I rigged up a bottle to contain a good 1/2ltr of fluid,to save topping up all the time!
Did the same on a local enthusiasts Morris 1000 when I did a brake overhaul for him about 2 months ago!
A combination of worn or previously skimmed drums,and new shoes that are not quite as thick as originals,can also lead to adjustment and pedal travel problems!!

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JPB
Posts: 10319
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:24 pm

Re: Morris1000 spongy brakes

#12 Post by JPB »

previously skimmed drums,and new shoes that are not quite as thick as originals,can also lead to adjustment and pedal travel problems
Indeed they can, so it's just as well that oversize linings are available. I don't like to use those where a drum is still being supplied O/E, but they're safe and have solved many a problem with drums that had to be skimmed for cars where fresh ones were NLA.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:
Wicksy
Posts: 148
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:32 pm
Location: RG42 - UK

Re: Morris1000 spongy brakes

#13 Post by Wicksy »

Read this topic with interest so far and have the following comments - used to swear by the vacume method but aggree with comment on air getting past the nipples. Had a Gunson brake bleeder but after the cap blew off and fluid splashed all over the wing of my Jag I Gave that the hurl test.
Then I read about the Draper bleed tool in PC and bought one. What a difference! It's simplicity itself consisting of a rubber nipple adapter with a non return valve, a retaining strap, a clear tube and a jar. You just connect the adaptor, loosen the nipple and pump the pedal untill air free and I have to tell you it really does work!
You can give quite vigorous pumps without the adaptor comming off and the only thing you have to worry about is the reserviour getting too low. The best part is the kit is less than a tenner :lol:
Young Farmer
Posts: 151
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:27 pm

Re: Morris1000 spongy brakes

#14 Post by Young Farmer »

That's a novel use for an old teat cup liner Pilkie! The only use I have found for one is an insulated handle for an electric fence. Adapted an old master cylinder cap for a Morris 1000 to enable us to use my Gunson brake bleeder, tested it with an old master cylinder and it worked fine. Bled the brakes and had a solid pedal in no time . Took it out for a test drive and every thing seemed fine when suddenly the pedal sank . Pumping it , then holding it on firmly the pedal was sinking very slowly. Drove home and got under the car to look for a leak while holding the brakes on firmly. Found a small weep from the pipe connecting the 2 wheel cylinders on the offside front. On removing it found that the pipe had been made up with double flares instead of single flares. One end was so thin that it was unable to get a really firm seal. Made up a new pipe, fitted it, bled the brakes again and perfection. Perhaps the moral of the story is while it is possible to bleed brakes alone , if there is a problem 2 heads are better than one. Thanks for your help along the way, hope it helps someone else.
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