cavity wax/rustproofer

[stevebrookman]

Morning all,
Have been reading Practical Classics for more years than I care to remember.
I've owned a few classics over the yaers including a P6 3500S, 3500SD1, Jensen Interceptor, Daimler 2.8 and a few more.

I now have a 93 Sierra 2.0GLXi auto which has been in the family since 1996. I would like to protect the unseen areas but always get confused with what to inject into the box sections, sills, etc.
I have a wax injection gun that I used on my brothers XJS many years ago-then we used Waxoyl but I see from tests in the mag that this is not the best.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks

Steve

[Martin Evans]

Dinitrol make some good products, though I wouldn't pay too much attention to magazine reviews.

[Luxobarge]

^^^WHS^^^

Dinitrol for me, every time.

[Raymk]

Dinitrol has worked well for me on various cars, even a Renault 20. Waxoyl does some good but dries out after a year or two. I'm trying some of Bilt Hamber Labs products on my son's Nissan 200sx. It's easy to use, a bit expensive, and after only 4 months since application I have no idea as to its effectiveness. I only use products suitable for box member injection. I have never been impressed with underseal either on a new car (applied by manufacturers) or aftermarket treatments except perhaps Ziebart's, if applied before the car has any rust. Otherwise, underseal seems to be used primarily by sellers eager to hide rust and dodgy repairs. Most box member injection fluids are quite runny when applied, taking at least a day to develop a surface skin which then stops the drips. It also gases off during this initial period and should not be sealed in with plugs and bungs for at least a day or two. Remember to protect your driveway or garage floor when applying these substances and ensure that you do it in a well ventilated area. The fumes are unpleasant and usually toxic.

[SEE YA]

^^^WHS^^^

Dinitrol for me, every time.

+1

[stevebrookman]

Many thanks,

I'll go with Dinitrol.

Regards

Steve

[kstrutt1]

I Use a 50 - 50 mix of waxoil and cheap new engine oil (warm it up to get it mixed), penetrates realy well, does not dry out like waxoil on it's own and costs a fraction of dinitrol etc.

Kevin

[arceye]

I Use a 50 - 50 mix of waxoil and cheap new engine oil (warm it up to get it mixed), penetrates realy well, does not dry out like waxoil on it's own and costs a fraction of dinitrol etc.

Kevin

NEW oil....... Money bags,

I'll admit to using my old oil this way working on the principal you rarely find a rotten transmission tunnel on a leaky old classic.

I also like like to thin waxoil with diesel for spraying into chassis legs as it then creeps everywhere, if you can see the mist coming out of a hole further up you know it is getting everywhere.
Then you can blow in some unthinned stuff for good measure. I apply it with a proper waxoil sprayer that hooks up to the compressor, a parrafin gun is also good for injecting through smaller holes if you thin it down with a little diesel first.

Never had a problem with wax oil but I generally do it every year for as long as I own a car, other more expensive products may last longer but you can't see what they are doing in a cavity until it's too late so I wouldn't be comfortable just doing it once and then leaving it. For about £30 a year I reckon an annual wax oiling isn't too much work or expense as part of ongoing maintenance.

Regarding underseal, I don't mind the stuff on good steel below a car, but I buy the big cheap tins (tetrosyl I think) and then mix in some waxoil before applying and this seems to work well also.

[Talking Hoarse]

I have used 2 different cavity waxes on my Datsun, all blown in with a DIY air compressor. I understand that cavity wax's really need to be blown in as a vapour so as to get everywhere. I was guarded about Waxoyl as I had heard of dribbling problems.

Bilt Hamber's cavity wax needed warming, and sets to a soft, pale brown almost clear wax. Little or no dribbles after the day, however it stank the car offensively for months. As I needed more wax I then bought Bodyline ML from Brown Brothers - at about ½ the price (£20) of he BH wax for 5 litres. This blew in really easily and reassuringly mist would come out of the far end of chassis rails etc. This had no dribbles after the day of application and sets to a soft brown toffee like consistency.
I used Bilt Hamber's Dynax UB under the car (ie floor & wheelarches etc) as that is thicker and blacker - and really goes on easily, building up thickness with several coats.
Only time will tell as to how effective these waxes are - but I suppose I can spray on 2x as much of the Bodyline cavity wax for the same price as Bilt Hamber's.
Still got the big groundsheet I used to protect the driveway if anyone needs a lend ........

Talking rustproofing with a TR2 pal, who used to be a Ziebart franchisee (thats the horrid black stuff).... He tells of an occasion when a head office bod was Ziebarting an E-Type Jag in the 1970's. The chap poked the lance up to spray above the gearbox, unwittingly piercing the gearlever gaiter and covering the interior of the car in black gunge. Dunno the outcome!
Ed

[alfaSleep]

GR8 thredd....

I'm getting into the 'fuzzy felt' corrosion zone on the SAVVY underpinnings now [its a 57] and I'm going to Waxoyl everything I can see....

I was hoping to avoid damn messy 'bicycle pump' Waxoyl application <I used one on old shite in the 80's> and see they do a 'Kilaspray' sort of pump handle, to screw into the tin?

If I buy a 'Kilaspray' kind of pump airless sprayer & add Diesel in the mix...... does anyone reckon I might get the stuff all over the car and NOT ME..lol

alfaSleep