Practically Classics Forum

When every wire is black, how on earth do you work out how to rip one out?!?!?!
Does anybody have a wiring diagram for a conlog car alarm? I am having nightmares about having to trace 24 wires with a multi-meter to work out what is connected to what.

More details on the alarm, year model car it was fitted to please so as to narrow it down.

Unfortunately all I can tell you is it has "Conlog" stamped in to a black case. They ceased trading some time ago, I have spent a large number of hours looking around the interweb for information but unsurprisingly a wiring diagram for an old alarm isn't something that appears to be on offer anywhere.
It was a dealer option on the 1994/5 Range Rovers and as an option on the MK3 golf for a while. I have the user manual for it but the description of the unit is "your conlog alarm system".
It uses the same remote as this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-GO ... 1353694412

I am all but resigned to having a long session with a wiring diagram and a multi-meter. At least fitting a modern alarm will bring my premium down. I will keep the broken conlog one in a box in case a future owner wants to revive it and have a comparatively rare option.

I suspect the mono-colour wiring is a bit of a security thing - the scumbags would soon learn that cutting the red and blue stop the horn and connecting the green and black bypasses the immobiliser. the alarm on the Passat (an "approved VW accessory" that VW wouldn't support) was done with yellow wires all over the place and, after selling it, the buyer (Alec at the local garage) got a local auto-electrician to rip the alram out (it used to flatten the battery if the car was left for two days - and the alarm had packed up after water got into the sounder).

If it is an optional extra or aftermarket job it might be worth looking to see if the wires are simply spliced into the loom and the original loom wires cut, if so the alarm wires can possibly be disconnected and the original wires reinstated if the fitter didn't chop too much of the original loom away.

Worth a look anyway as it won't take long to have a gander, I have no idea if it works this way on cars but it sometimes does on motorbikes such as my 07 BMW 650 with the dealer option alarm and you can simply take off the alarm wires and re connect the colour coded wires of the loom.

Just a thought, but you never know.

As above it was to thwart would be thieves tracing the 'obvious' colours. When the kits were new the wires had numbered tags on them which were removed when the system was installed and tested. The general idea was to splice in where it was possible to remove the length of original wiring so it may depend on how diligent the original fitter was as to whether the original wires can be spliced together again.

I have made use of my meter and found ignition live, permanent live, "earth", bonnet switch, door switch (all doors and the boot are on one), the LED on the dash and the interior sensors. Only 30 more wires to go. This would be much easier if either the RR fitted in my garage or it was June so there was daylight in the evenings :S

TerryG wrote:This would be much easier if either the RR fitted in my garage or it was June so there was daylight in the evenings :S

preaching to the choir mate

Mitsuru wrote:

TerryG wrote:This would be much easier if either the RR fitted in my garage or it was June so there was daylight in the evenings :S

preaching to the choir mate

And todays sermon is why it's a bit scary to weld the underside of a landrover when the dry patch under the vehicle is the only safe space to plonk the angle grinder and the welder

"Oooh Look daddy, that man's playing with fireworks under his car"

You could always do what I have done. take the boot floor out then you can put the welder on the rear floor while you do chassis repairs.