Practically Classics Forum

Dear All,
I am about to start removing the engine from my 911 for rebuild. Although not new to classic cars and restoration, I haven't needed to resort to using heat too often when removing seized rusted nuts but I think it will be a common problem with this job.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good torch for heating seized nuts?

I have a normal 'diy' blowtorch but I'm sure that I once saw a miniature torch, about half the size, used for this purpose but can't seem to find any info on it now.

Thanks

Simon

You can use either conventional butane, or an oxy-acetylene kit for more serious levels of heat. For either, I'd go to the local plumber's merchants, for good quality items of either type. The "professional" type butane torches used by plumbers have a much better controlled flame, and much more focussed than cheap DIY store torches.

Cheers

these put out a decent amount of heat

http://www.screwfix.com/p/quickpro-auto ... tAodyXEAKQ

kev

Not really an answer to your question but my first choice when confronted by a seized nut is to use a nut splitter . Safer than using heat and doesn't risk snapping a stud off. You can clean the thread up afterwards with a die or a specialised thread renovator. If the nut is so rusty that it's seized then it needs to be replaced anyway, especially if it's a locking type. Your Porsche probably only uses a small number of different metric sizes so it's easy to keep a stock in your workshop.

Thanks for your replies guys.
I think I might have a nut splitter hidden in the garage somewhere which I'd forgotten about, but will also pop down to the plumbers merchants.

Simon

I had to use a nut splitter on a mini hub nut back in the summer (I forgot that they are handed). After several hours of swearing, less than 5 minutes with a splitter had the job done.

A good sharp cold chisel is better than any special tool you can buy and a darn sight faster.