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Alpine Suspension

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:06 pm
by AlpineAndy
I have been trying to remove the upper fulcrum pin on my Alpine for a while (front right). Finally I have removed one bolt but the second evades me - I was finally thinking that I have to heat it, but with it being so close to close to the innner wing etc. this would not be ideal. However, seems now - finally that the bolt head has rounded off - even with a Hex socket... Does anyone have any suggestions?
Space is limited and I do not think I will be able to get access to drill out and use an extractor. I am wondering whether to recut the head to a 9/16 hex socket.

Does anyone have any advice - this really is doing my head in.

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:45 am
by jpsh120
Do you have enough room to cut the head off with a grinder? I had to do this once on a caliper bolt that rounded off.

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:54 am
by Wicksy
It's been said many times on this forum - weld on a nut and use an impact wrench. The heat from the weld zaps the fused threads and the impact shocks do the rest.
Not got a welder? Your idea of re sizing the bolt head is OK if you can do it - use an impact wrench on that with a pre soak in penetrating fluid.
Not got an impact wrench? I think an investstment strategy is called for :lol:

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:12 pm
by AlpineAndy
There is no access to cut the head off the bolt off.

I have soaked the 'job' in penetrating fluid for rather a long time (daily) so I I might consider reshaping the bolt head to 9/16" and use the impact (6 sided) socket I have with a 50cm breaker bar.
Welding is an option, although I must admit to having not yet got the hang of welding (gathering dust in the corner of garage).

Thanks for the responses.

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:05 pm
by JPB
If you can file every flat down a size and then get a socket onto the bolt head, there's room to cut it off! Just use a hacksaw handle that utilises broken ends and has the blade protruding from the outside of the handle, like the one in the picture below, which has got me out of several "can't get a hacksaw in there" situations.

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:24 pm
by Luxobarge
JPB wrote: like the one in the picture below, .
No piccy mate???

Good tools though, and for even tougher stuff I have one of these:

Image

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:31 pm
by JPB
Sorry, posting from a phone isn't a good thing, I'm off before doing so gets me into serious trouble. :oops: To explain what happened.... :shock: Nah, cars and their little quirks are far more interesting. That certainly looks like a handy beast though, I have an air-powered device that does a similar thing and cannot count the number of times I've wished it were an electric one.

The O/P certainly wouldn't have much bother cutting a bolt head off with one of those. :)

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:16 pm
by alfaSleep
Impact Screwwie? ;-)

I have a pair of hubs, loose from a salvage - so I can do new hub bearings WITHOUT stripping the car first, and I took the discs off last night.... didn't even give it a thought - Impact out of drawer, hub held by foot, WHACK!!, unscrew c'sk screws.. Done.

Top tottie in my book :-)

alfaSleep

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:43 pm
by AlpineAndy
Just an update - just attacked the job with the Dremel - pretty much no access.

As far as I can see there remain two options 1. drilling out or 2. welding a nut on, as suggested. Given that there is a captive nut on the end and the top-pin is also threaded (I think) I am thinking that the best approach might be to weld the nut on - so seems I might have to teach myself to weld at the weekend...
If anyone else has suggestion do please feel free - I am happy to learn!

Cheers, Andy

Re: Alpine Suspension

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:05 pm
by Wicksy
Good luck with the welding, try tacking the sides and a good blob down the centre of the nut - an impact wrench is still the best option for shocking it free, a straining bar might just shear something. Using a club hammer against the the bar would be good.
Have you considered an electric impact tool if no compressor, I've heard they are pretty effective and the Draper/Sealy ones are cheap. Just a thought 8-)