Practically Classics Forum

O.K, really thought the little mini was all but done this time (should have known better), then on changing oil I found a few small needle bearing pins on the sump plug magnet A little test drive (on private roads of course ) shows a noisy box especially when letting off in third gear along with a little crunch on selecting third.

So its engine out and gearbox autopsy time, I'm o.k with most of it, engines going to come out from the top rather than dropping the subframe et al, what I want to know is can the driveshafts be dropped at the engine for this, or do I need to support the car and drop the hubs to release the driveshafts in order to get the engine out? Last horizontal A series I changed was an Austin 1300GT in 1988 so not quite up to speed on this one.......

Hmmm i doubt there will be enough movement on the shafts to be able to leave them in place,i think your going to have to drop the hubs off and pull them clear.

Cheers for that, I suspected as much but was hoping not.
Ah well....

It depends on the type of shafts.

If you have the Cooper S or early Automatic type, which are a small universal joint, with four nuts, then you can wriggle them back enough to get the engine and box out.

If you have the rubber cross and u-bolt type (most Minis to about 1974) or the usual Pot Joint type (All Minis from 1974ish) you must undo the top ball joint on one hub and support the hub. I undo the radiator side top ball joint and slide that one clear, then tilt the radiator end of the engine and trans as I lift it and pull the clutch side one out.

Withe the pot joint type you either have to drain the oil and remove the whole Pot by popping it free from the transmission, or you can remove the inner boot and pull the inner part of the Pot out. Then you will need to chase all the little greasy balls that fell on the floor and collect them up.

Whne putting the greasy balls back in, clean them up, click them in place, regrease and then wrap them in a couple of layers of cling-wrap. This will hold them in place while you reseat the inner part into the outer. You can leave the cling-wrap in there, it won't do any harm.

Cheers,

Thanks Bnicho,
Later mini, 1978 so pot type joint. Anyway chocked it up, removed wheels, split top ball joints and inner parts of shaft just pulled straight out from the pots, the ball bearings even stayed in place

I'll remember the cling wrap trick for when it goes back together thank you.

I thought I'd have to drop the shafts but my dad used to do quite a bit on Minis and swears he never had to drop them to take an engine out, but that would have been on 60's stuff so your explanation makes sense of everything.

Anyway, all that remains of this part is to lift the engine out, if the rain / hail and freezing wind decides to give up

Then the fun can start, might just look for another box, I don't mind engine work but have always stayed away from the black art of gearbox building up to now.

You were lucky the balls didn't drop everywhere. They usually do for me, I even lost one down the exhaust once and had to remove the whole system so I could tip it out.

Pulling the lump out is easy enough, just remember to disconnect the earth strap and sppedo cable. Pull from the front head studs so the angle is right for the diff housing to clear the firewall.

I too find gearboxes a black art. But second-hand Mini gearboxes are often false economy. Most of them at least have a dead second-gear synchro so at least try and find one that you know has been rebuilt recently.

Also check what final drive is fitted to the second-hand box, as it may be vastly different to the one you are removing. Minis/Mokes/Metros/1100/1300 etc came with a huge number of possible final drive ratios. Swapping the FD involves locking the box in two gears and a 150lb/ft nut on the pinion. I've got to change the final drive in two gearboxes soon and I'm not looking forward to it.

Cheers,

If it was me, I'd at least have a stab at repairing the existing 'box if it was otherwise working well. They're pretty simple and if it's only a case of replacing a bearing or two then it wouldn't be that expensive. If you fail then there's always plan B of buying a second-hand one and it will be very satisfying if you succeed. Having just read your account of the Riley, you sound like a man who enjoys a challenge

suffolkpete wrote:If it was me, I'd at least have a stab at repairing the existing 'box if it was otherwise working well. They're pretty simple and if it's only a case of replacing a bearing or two then it wouldn't be that expensive. If you fail then there's always plan B of buying a second-hand one and it will be very satisfying if you succeed. Having just read your account of the Riley, you sound like a man who enjoys a challenge

Seconded - the internals are pretty similar to a Midget box, and I rebuilt mine. It required large quantities of patience, and quite a lot of swearing, but was very satisfying in the end, and now I know I've got a good 'un too - and I learnt a lot. It didn't take that long either.

Go on then chaps, I'll at least have it to bits and see how bad it is. I think half of it is just wanting to get on with the Riley now, given every set back on the Mini the Rileys not seeming so bad.

Anyway the boy is off college this week and has finally risen from his pit, he's threatening to get off his behind after wheeler dealers and lift it out, funny how the fact he turns 17 at christmas and I already have the L plates seems to be motivating him. I'm taking the wife for some shopping before getting back to my work so I'll see what happens in my absence Hopefully I wont return to a lot of broken cast pieces on the floor

And here it is, right proud of him I am, the sun may be shining now but it was hail and sleet just before the photo. The paper in the windscreen is his list of what needs disconecting. The hoist is actually for lifting disabled people but works great, borrowed from a good friend in town.



I'll let you know what I find in the gearbox in a day or two, and maybe just pick folks brains again