I saw a programme during the week were an E type was restored using a set of shockers that came out of a skip! We only use brand new genuine parts or like the brake calipers have then professionally overhauled.
The 'flexi' Porshe, it really was bad. Apparently the 911 of that period suffered from serious corrosion in the sills because they were not treated from new. Later versions used 'Zintec' or similar rust proofed material. I am told that the heater boxes that run through the sills sweat and cause the whole structure to rot from the inside out. Obviously that is bad news for the rag top models and not too smart on the tin tops!. The 911 on the show could be made to flex by pushing down hard on the rear end. We had to substantially brace the shell by welding box section between the A and B posts before cutting out the sills, lower B post and floor sections. On some of the shots you can see this. It obviously did the trick because after the new sills, lower B post and floor sections were welded in the doors fitted perfectly and when it was lifted up on the ramp there was no movement in the shell and the door 'shuts' never changed. This was confirmed by opening and closing the doors both on the body lift and when on its wheels. The closing and body lines remained the same. We had to do the same on the Rover P6 in Series 1.
The electric's were best described as 'of the period'. Mounting electronic bits and pieces under the seats are never clever in my book. The carpets have a greater chance of getting wet than any other part of the interior. The passenger seat in a car driven by a nutter is a close second I suppose!

Next Monday 14th April at 8-00pm is the Mk I LandRover. The wiring was horrendous. It was that bad I thought I had wired it up.
I am going to the Practical Classics Show at the NEC on Sunday. I am paying to get in, unless somebody wants to pay for me or give me a free ticket.
Hmmmm.........better get my wallet out!
I took my 1942 Ford GPW engine block into be rebored and new valve guides fitted on Wednesday. Yesterday I had the news that the block is badly cracked and can be welded etc BUT the man at NatWest is going to have to OK it!! Bloody Fords. I have a rusty Willys block that will have to be taken in to see if that is ok. I don't have any main caps for that so the GPW ones will have to be machined to fit and then line bored. It's only money. At least I don't have to get it finished in 3 weeks.
