and thought about buying oneSo what can people tell me about the GT6? I know there a spitfire in drag but what things are there to look out for, cars to avoid and common faults. What's the best model to go for GT6+, mk3?
Classic daily?
Re: Classic daily?
Well I think my decision has come full circle back to a GT6, although prices have doubled since I last had this mid life crisis and thought about buying one
So what can people tell me about the GT6? I know there a spitfire in drag but what things are there to look out for, cars to avoid and common faults. What's the best model to go for GT6+, mk3?
and thought about buying oneSo what can people tell me about the GT6? I know there a spitfire in drag but what things are there to look out for, cars to avoid and common faults. What's the best model to go for GT6+, mk3?
Mark.
Re: Classic daily?
They're a great source of 3.27:1 diffs for Automites.89rallye wrote: So what can people tell me about the GT6?
Seriously, they are. The pushrod IL6 with a flywheel and manual transmission is kind to diffs but the combination of the 1850cc slant 4 with a torque converter goes through [diffs] like yoghurt through a dog. Rather than borrow the lower 3.63:1 unit from a manual or from a 1500, people (aye... ) take these from GT6s so check that it doesn't come with a 3.63 fitted in place of the correct one. 
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
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Willy Eckerslyke
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 2:35 pm
Re: Classic daily?
Excellent choice. (Or a Vitesse if you want the same power with more space.)89rallye wrote:Well I think my decision has come full circle back to a GT6,
... common faults.
Once common fault with Triumph engines of that era is crankshaft end float. Watch the front pulley while your assistant presses and releases the clutch with the engine running. If it shunts backwards and forwards 1/8th of an inch or more, the rearmost thrust washers have fallen out. If the engine has been run like that for long, the crankshaft will have worn against the main bearing cap meaning it needs a new crank and possibly new engine.
Another certain indication is a seller who doesn't let you drive, but gives a demo run himself and constantly rides the clutch.
Genuine Metallastic Rotoflex couplings are now very expensive. Other makes don't last long. So if you choose a car with Rotoflex (rubber donut joints on the rear driveshafts) then allow for some expense. Conversions are available but even more expensive.
Panel gaps were never very good, but beware if they're really bad - check if the bonnet clips down easily or has to be forced. A bent chassis from an accident could be to blame.
Overdrive is essential, IMO. A gearbox that's been rebuilt with later internals and later overdrive is a positive asset provided it sounds healthy.