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Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:43 am
by tractorman
I thought you were from farming folk Terry. There are two methods of securing the pipes - baler twine and a bit of old fence wire (flatten the barbs first!).

Perhaps a local hydraulic hose supplier may be able to help. Though not exactly what you want (and in large quantities), these people may help:

http://www.aerohydraulics.com/default.aspx

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:56 am
by TerryG
I have thought of a simple solution :) P clips are available in all sizes so i have ordered a bag (of 10) that are the correct size and I'll put two together with a bolt through the mounting holes. Simple and cheap.
I have spent most of the morning looking at hose clips / clamps / mountings (it's always better surfing the net at work so you are paid to do it) and i can't find anything that looks like the part i need. I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next to see if they know.

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:38 pm
by JPB
TerryG wrote: I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next....
:shock: :?

I've had overpriced suits and uncomfortable shoes from them but had no idea that they sell car parts! ;)

Sorry, I guess I should run away again after that one. :oops:

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:19 pm
by rich.
JPB wrote:
TerryG wrote: I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next....
:shock: :?

I've had overpriced suits and uncomfortable shoes ! ;)

Sorry, I guess I should run away again after that one. :oops:
i thought you were that way inclined but didnt like to say :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 9:49 pm
by TerryG
A bit of fiddling today, I turned my distributor round by 180 degrees so I could put my HT leads on the right plug (they are numbered and some were too short with it in the direction it was). Before any silly comments arrive, I removed it, turned the shaft around then put it back in.
I have got a cheapo ebay endoscope which meant I could see why setting the timing was impossible with a light and had to be done "by ear"
This is with 1 on TDC:
timing-small.jpg
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The timing mark on my crank pulley is out a tad.
It now has a spot of paint on it in the correct place.

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:36 pm
by TerryG
SWMBO is working late tonight so I have been outside and fitted a new alternator and put some PAS fluid in (I swapped a hose that has been weeping since I bought the car) then gone for a spin around the block.
now I have an exhaust leak.

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:35 pm
by Richard Moss
TerryG wrote:SWMBO is working late tonight so I have been outside and fitted a new alternator and put some PAS fluid in (I swapped a hose that has been weeping since I bought the car) then gone for a spin around the block.
now I have an exhaust leak.
I have a Jeep that behaves like that (1995 Cherokee). I can't keep the bastard serviceable long enough to sell it!

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:10 pm
by rich.
probably both built by the chap who slung my galaxy together.... although i shouldnt complain, its not that bad a motor... :D

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Sun May 11, 2014 10:14 pm
by TerryG
Over the past few weekends I have been prepairing some replacement rear doors for my car as the ones fitted have rotted out at the bottom (it is a common LSE rot spot)
One door is now in primer ready for some nice green paint,
the other has had a paint reaction:
reaction1.jpg
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I wiped the area with some cellulose thinners to remove the primer and hopefully whatever had caused the reaction under it and the blue paint underneath came off
reaction2.jpg
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I will clean it up tomorrow and try painting just that area again to see what happens otherwise I will have to sand the whole door back to metal.

Re: 1994 Range Rover

Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:54 am
by kstrutt1
The other option is to flat it back to the non reacted paint, give it a coat of barcoat then prime and topcoat s normal.