Practically Classics Forum

lhubbard wrote: One irritating problem is I broke one of the screw in caps for an ignition lead. I feel abit irritated having the bye a new set when firstly it is a new set and secondly its only one. Has anyone got a single lead they can donate or know where I can get single leads?.

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/misc-aco ... hread.html

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/misc-aco ... hread.html

Dear Harvey

diamond chap thanks i will investigate

best regards

lee

well today massive steps forward.

replaced the two shot anti roll bar bushed, very simple job. discovered someone had replaced one and used a split coolant instead of using a replacement bush...some people.

also ran the car up and down the road going through the gears and was very smooth engaging and disengaging. when I poped back I noticed the level of fluid had dropped off. I topped up again. I noticed the engagement was a little more harsh after topping up but I think that was because I took my foot of the brake a little quickly. I'm not sure that just topping up would effect the engagement as I only put an extra pint of so in. There was no leaks either which was cool. The drive train was smooth with no noticeable thuds or bumps. also the car changed down on hard acceleration. Just a little concerned about the final test after refilling but I think a lot of the shunt forward was me taking the foot of the brake too quickly and not releasing the revs of the car prior to that. Have to get used to an automatic ...

Also put back on bumpers and replaced the broken distributor plug so that's all done. It was just then little jobs like realigning the drivers door and clamping the battery down. although the bumpers have to come off again wanted to dry fit to confirm I had all parts

starting on some of the body work prep now for its respray.


cheers

lee

Did you check the level with the engine running and after moving the selector through each position for long enough to let it engage? If you checked it with the engine not running and without having done that, then the level won't be shewn correctly and you might have overfilled.

Glad it's coming along though but. Well done!

i had gone through the gears and took it out for a short spin but the level was checked with the engine off. I will drain out a bit of fluid just as like you said i may have over filled.

cheers

lee

I suggest checking the level properly before doing anything. It would be a shame to drain any fluid off if you haven't overfilled it, so get the engine warmed right up to its running temperature, pull the selector anti clockwise from park, through reverse, ,neutral, drive, second and first and let it take up the drive in every position, then back clockwise to park again, let it stand idling in park for a couple of minutes and, while it's still standing idling, check the level which, with the fluid warmed up, should be at the uppermost of the four lines on the dipstick or at least somewhere between that line (full when hot mark) and the one below (the full when cold mark).

JPB wrote:I suggest checking the level properly before doing anything. It would be a shame to drain any fluid off if you haven't overfilled it, so get the engine warmed right up to its running temperature, pull the selector anti clockwise from park, through reverse, ,neutral, drive, second and first and let it take up the drive in every position, then back clockwise to park again, let it stand idling in park for a couple of minutes and, while it's still standing idling, check the level which, with the fluid warmed up, should be at the uppermost of the four lines on the dipstick or at least somewhere between that line (full when hot mark) and the one below (the full when cold mark).

I'd agree with all of the above apart from the amount of time to leave it running after running through the range. The correct amount of time is an unrushed stroll from the driver's seat, the time it takes to remove and wipe the dipstick clean, and then put it straight back in to take the level. If you add fluid repeat the whole procedure. The other thing, which I'm sure you've done anyway is to make sure you do it all on level ground.

hi there Guys

thats cool thanks I think i made a boo boo and topped up without running the engine. would an over fill be responsible for a bit of jolt though as it seems strange all was ok then i topped up and i got the golt back.

any thoughts

best regards

lee

Generally the level on the stick would be higher without the engine running, because the pump won't be sucking the fluid out of the sump, lowering the level, so adding then would still leave it low then the engine is started. That's without taking into account any drainback from the converter which would bump up the level even more. But regardless of whether that is or isn't the case, check it again properly and see what level you get, and then address that should you need to.
If it has been allright, and if you're not used to autos, the chances are the jolt was cockpit error, a miscalculation of gearlever position, brake, and throttle application.

hi there Harvey
I am thinking it was driver error as when I backed the car out it was smooth and I was using low revs. however I think I used a bit to much some time later and dropped the brake a bit to quickly. It was more like a surge forward. the engage was very smooth and the car did not clunk like it did before I changed the props and the mounting etc.

When took it up the road the change was smooth and the car changed down and then on sharp acceleration changed up again so that is fine. I think it may be a question of simply getting used to the automatic as there is certainly a major improvement in the drive train now all the worn parts have been replaced and greased properly.

I will sort out the levels properly but I am now convinced that the drive train is fine. What it needs is someone used to autos to have a drive and see what they think...lol

cheers

lee