Practically Classics Forum

History wrote: Also an aide to fire watch.

Always a good plan, remembering to clean both sides of the steel you are welding as far back as you can is good too. waxoil burns really rather well.

Grinding sparks can also cause fires. But at least one has clear goggles and a good field of vision. Grinding and welding sparks can damage glass. Gaffer tape works well.

I use a plastic pump spray bottle full of water for fire suppression. And I have a fire extinguisher.

Also forgot quite often the when floor is rusted out the box section beneath is often damaged as well. Its much easier to weld repair from the top before the floor is repaired.

I have done a few Renault 5s where rust has got the rear suspension mountings. The floor above is usually Ok. I cut the floor out. Repair the mountings then put the floor back.

Bob.

Thanks for the comments guys, with regards to this...

Flatlander wrote:From what I can see from the photos of the posted jigs, I would not buy either. Both seem to lack the important feature of height adjustment. ...

the links were to the basic kit.

The Mk2Mania link was to their standard one, they also do a deluxe rollover jig at £320 which has a height adjustment along the lines of what you describe. May be worth considering the extra (although pretty much double) cost.

The other ones on rolloverjigs.com in the description it explains how they are offset where required to ensure the pivot is on the centre of gravity specific to the car you are turning over, also for an extra £70 they do a self loading balancing attachment .... which is essentially the height adjustable bit you mention.

As Minxy said the bumper brackets are the mounting point for these giving a good connection directly to the chases rail. And yes the construction if relatively simple and easy enough to knock up but (in kit form at least) these don't seem particularly expensive so for ease and speed it makes sense to use a tried and trusted design since someone has already gone to the trouble to working it all out.

I'm intending a complete strip down and nut and bolt rebuild, so it's not just about welding sills and a floor, these can be prone to rot in the rear turrets and other hard to get at areas as with any old car I suppose so flipping it over will make life easier for removing all the old underseal, ensuring all the metal is rust free and applying new protection. Fuel and brake lines etc. will also be more accessible and yes I'll be working on a bare shell with all the glass, trim and interior safely stored away from the car, so apart from the wax itself no other major flammable parts but yes fire watching is important. Hopefully by then I'll be able to get my teenage son motivated and he's eager to learn to weld too.

I've got a few final jobs to finish off on my 1993 BMW to get it ready for sale, then a few household DIY jobs to top up the brownie points so nothing much is going to happen on this for a few months anyway. In the meanwhile I'll continue to check out the options.

I have a jig like the one in the first link with the Capri on it. It came to me 3rd hand after 2 other club members had used it and once I'm done I'll no doubt pass it on for a small fee. They really are fantastic bits of kit, especially if space is tight.



Dave

^^^ That image sums up in a nutshell why these things can be such a godsend. Not only is that making the best of the space in what appears to be a single garage, but that sort of access is only available with the shell sat that way and all the room in the world wouldn't help with that if the car were still on the floor.

Absolutely John.

There's acres of space to work on either side in a single garage with the car on its side. Fortunately I now have a double garage after moving house a year ago, but the principle of creating space still applies. Modern double garages are not as big as they should be

Dave

Dave3066 wrote:Absolutely John.

Modern double garages are not as big as they should be

Dave

I can assure you that our older double garage isn't as big as it should be either - even if it was twice as big, it would be too small for me!!

We have this in the workshop and would not be without it It came from http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/ and is the heavy duty version so you can lift & turn a vehicle with all mechanicals / drivetrain attached - it was not that cheap at circa £850 but it has paid for itself many times over - they are cheaper versions that they stock - my advice is invest in a good one - it will save a lot of hassle - don't expect to hang your bodyshell on one of these then cut out the sills and floorpan without bracing the shell first - (I am not saying that you cannot do it - just that the door apertures on the vehicle will be heavily distorted if you don't brace the shell first) You could always purchase one complete your restoration then either resell on or someone I know has made 3 times what the jig cost him by rehiring it out to others.

Grumpy Northener wrote:don't expect to hang your bodyshell on one of these then cut out the sills and floorpan without bracing the shell first

Thanks, I was aware of this and is a slight concern. But until I get the car stripped... which will be no time soon as I've other projects to finish I can't even assess the damage. It might not even need full sills.

Can't wait to get stuck in, but keep getting held up. Trying to finish an e30 touring ready for sale, replacing the fuel tank and refurbishing all the rear running gear. Had more than one bolt sheer off and not enjoying the process as much as I should.

Grumpy Northener wrote:We have this in the workshop and would not be without it

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It came from http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/ and is the heavy duty version so you can lift & turn a vehicle with all mechanicals / drivetrain attached - it was not that cheap at circa £850 but it has paid for itself many times over - they are cheaper versions that they stock - my advice is invest in a good one - it will save a lot of hassle - don't expect to hang your bodyshell on one of these then cut out the sills and floorpan without bracing the shell first - (I am not saying that you cannot do it - just that the door apertures on the vehicle will be heavily distorted if you don't brace the shell first) You could always purchase one complete your restoration then either resell on or someone I know has made 3 times what the jig cost him by rehiring it out to others.

Not sure if I'm being a bit thick here, but how do you get the bodyshell in balance on that jig?

The way I see things, a bodyshell has a CofG. Through that pass three axis. (what is the plural of that?) One vertical, one left to right horizontal, and one front to rear horizontal. To keep the body in balance, therefore easier to turn and hold, the latter axis should pass through front and rear pivot points. How is that achieved?