Practically Classics Forum

Nestor - can I suggest that you carry out some basic diagnostic tests as described, before throwing parts at it? Nobody will be able to tell you whether it's the coil or not without more information. The problem with randomly fitting parts is that there are a LOT of dodgy ignition parts for sale, and I'm afraid you stand a very good chance of replacing perfectly good working components with new ones that are faulty, and thus introducing lots more problems on top of the ones you already have, which will make further diagnosis really hard.

I'm confident there are a number of others on here who will agree with me on the issue of the terrible quality of new ignition parts!

If you don't know how to use a meter, just ask, no problem, we'll talk you through it. If you don't have one, I can strongly recommend that you do, they can be had for around £8 upwards.

Cheers

Luxobarge wrote: I'm confident there are a number of others on here who will agree with me on the issue of the terrible quality of new ignition parts!

Absolutely - I fitted a new Lucas rotor arm to my MGC and it was faulty right out of the box.

No spark from the coil lead means one of the following: faulty/maladjusted points, faulty condensor, faulty coil, faulty coil lead, no power to the coil to nam just a few.....

Absolutely aggree with the last two posts - a digital meter is a must and incidentally the instructions usually tell you how to use it so that is not much of an issue, the parts problem is also an issue but that is getting ahead of the problem.
Basic systematic logic is the key and a lot of the time re checking the work you have just done gives the answer - for example did you check that the carbs were re assembled correctly and the controls all set properly, if you disturbed the ignition system did the leads go back on the right plugs - it's very easy to swap 2 and 3 leads on the B and it just won't start - is the carbon brush present and undamaged, has it jammed into the dizzy so it isn't making contact with the Rotor arm?
The pump running continuosly and overflow fron the float chambers is a red herring, yes it's a problem but shouldn't prevent a start.
Finally, why did you decide to clean the carbs in the first place? Was there already an inherent problem with the engines running or were you just doing a bit of preventive maintenance

Ok guys my ears and eyes are open, I have a multimetre and just need some direction were to start..
Didn't read those posts in time and have since replaced the coil, still nothing...
I will follow tour direction help please.

What part of the world do you stay in? Maybe if we know this a local member would be able to talk you through it face to face.

Wakefield

Haaha yes!! Done it, took the dizzy cap off again and found the contact arm underneath was touching the inside of the dizzy fixed it in place and away we went

Like I said - re check the work you have just done I speak with the authority of someone who has been caught out this way before
For "contact arm" read rotor arm I guess and you hadn't pressed it fully down with the spigot aligned, yup that'd do it

I hadn't even touched it so god know ho it had come out