Practically Classics Forum

Thanks Dave and Pilkie, I think I'm starting to get the picture now. I've already registered for the Classic Rover Forum. Petworth House is a long haul from here, I'll drive the car round locally for a while and see how reliable it is before I decide whether or not to risk it.

suffolkpete wrote:Petworth House is a long haul from here

You must be in deepest, darkest Suffolk then I've got family near Bungay so I know how long it can take to get to that part of Suffolk from the main arterial routes

Dave

I'm actually quite close to a main artery, the A12 but it's the M25 that puts me off. Petworth is looking distinctly unlikely after today, I went out in it today with the family and after about 45 minutes driving, the brakes locked on solid.

suffolkpete wrote:The P6 is the last of the real Rovers before BL messed them up.

I think the best bit of the SD1 was the engine and gearbox and to be fair, they were good. I must admit I thought the P6 was nicer at the time (Even though the SD1 had a bigger boot) and I know there were problems with the early SD1s. I don't know if Cowley cars were better

suffolkpete wrote: after about 45 minutes driving, the brakes locked on solid.

bummer

Was it all 4 brakes that locked on? Apart from what most people describe as "dreaded" inboard rear brakes (they're not that bad really) the braking system is fairly straightforward so hopefully you'll get it sorted in no time at all.

Dave

Yes, all four. I think the master cylinder is sticking, the car has only covered about 350 miles since 2006.

suffolkpete wrote:Yes, all four. I think the master cylinder is sticking, the car has only covered about 350 miles since 2006.

When it happens, if you think it's the master cylinder, slacken the pipe between it and the servo, and if it all frees off then your diagnosis was correct. If not, slacken the outlet pipe from the servo, and if it frees off then it proves it's the servo. If it turns out to be the master, the first thing to do is check the pedal height.

Easier said than done. If I feel the brakes locking up and pull over, the act of braking causes it to release. It happens after a prolonged spell of driving at speed with no braking. If I keep my speed down to 40 - 50 mph then it's ok. My theory is that the master cylinder is not always allowing the fluid to return, and when I'm driving quickly the fluid gets warm and expands and applies the brakes which in turn causes them to get warmer and apply the brakes harder and so on. I think I'll overhaul the master cylinder, judging by the nasty black gunge that came out when I tried bleeding the brakes it won't do any harm.

suffolkpete wrote: My theory is that the master cylinder is not always allowing the fluid to return,

Classic symptoms of incorrect pedal height.

Pedal height was one of things I tried, although I'm a bit confused. HBoL says measure it from the bottom edge of the rubber to the floor, but the floor is not level underneath the brake pedal. Do I measure it from the low part of the floor or the high part?