As I'm new to points,I'm thinking that on my MK5 Cortina are not opening. I did turn the engine by hand to see,and they seemed to stay shut. The Cortina does drive,but badly. I tried to tune up the ignition timing yesterday,as it's firing around 16 degrees,and managed to drop it a bit,but runs rough.
Your opinions most appreciated
breaker points?
Re: breaker points?
This is easier than trying to explain http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c 
Strive for perfection in everything you do
Re: breaker points?
That's brilliant. It's what happens when one gets use to late electronic igntion. Thanks
Re: breaker points?
Have you had a look to see if there is an optronic kit to convert it to electronic ignition? It is a popular upgrade as good quality points / condensers are getting hard to come by.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: breaker points?
Yes Terry,I was looking Accuspark and the likes. When you say 'optronic',that takes me to Lumenition,big money for me at the moment
Re: breaker points?
I'm lucky in that my proper classic has an a-series so the leccy ignition kit was REALLY cheap. I was indeed referring to the Lumenition optronic kit as I was all but certain they would offer one for your engine. I know very little about Tinas so wasn't sure what engine (kent, pinto, CVH, etc) you had so didn't know what kits to look for. You may be able to find a used distributor that has an electronic ignition system in it for less than the cost of a kit.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: breaker points?
Any Hall Effect type ignition is good IMHO and beats points out of sight 
Re: breaker points?
Aye... I fitted a hall dizzy [panda auto - selecta] straight onto my panda 750L. Same wires connected up...Wicksy wrote:Any Hall Effect type ignition is good IMHO and beats points out of sight
Fired straight up!!!
alfaSleep
'the french will always be there when they need you'...Monty ;<)
Re: breaker points?
Just shoved a little electronic hall type unit in a '59 Moggie for someone.. What a bloody difference it made even though the points were gapped ok before.
I'd say they are well worth the outlay, and not a big job at all
Only worry is if they go wrong (which they don't generally) you are stuck, but just carry points and condenser in the boot and it is an easy roadside fix.
I'd say they are well worth the outlay, and not a big job at all
Only worry is if they go wrong (which they don't generally) you are stuck, but just carry points and condenser in the boot and it is an easy roadside fix.
-
mr rusty
- Posts: 469
- Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:17 am
- Location: Harlow, the birthplace of fibreoptic communication, as the town sign says.
Re: breaker points?
Reading your original posting it looks like simply a matter of adjusting the points correctly, best done with a feeler gauge and preferably a dwell meter (but not essential) and a check of the haynes manual.
It's a 5 minute job, easily done when the points heel is on the cam lobe, but seems somewhat mystical to the modern eye not innured to the job from an early age......however, due to the appalling quality of old-school ignition components over the last few years I've fitted cheapo hall effect units to both the Vitesse and the Metro, and fit a rotor arm from distributor doc (not one of the many red copies currently cropping up, but a proper red one from the doc himself) and you shouldn't have any further ignition issues.
I wouldn't bother with lumenition, it's an expensive solution from 30 odd years ago now, a bit of anachronism although undoubtedly effective,but it's been superseded for some time now by the cheap hall effect units now available.
It's a 5 minute job, easily done when the points heel is on the cam lobe, but seems somewhat mystical to the modern eye not innured to the job from an early age......however, due to the appalling quality of old-school ignition components over the last few years I've fitted cheapo hall effect units to both the Vitesse and the Metro, and fit a rotor arm from distributor doc (not one of the many red copies currently cropping up, but a proper red one from the doc himself) and you shouldn't have any further ignition issues.
I wouldn't bother with lumenition, it's an expensive solution from 30 odd years ago now, a bit of anachronism although undoubtedly effective,but it's been superseded for some time now by the cheap hall effect units now available.
1968 Triumph Vitesse Mk1 2 litre convertible, Junior Miss rusty has a 1989 998cc Mk2 Metro, Mrs Rusty has a modern common rail diesel thing.