Surface Rust Remover

[Mattcortes]

Hiya

Currently restoring a 1967 13/60 Herald Convertible and the bulkhead whilst being solid is covered in surface rust. Has anyone had good/ bad experiences of any brush on rust dissolver? I remember there being an article in one of the old PC or CM mags but cant remember what one (or in fact what product won). I have used KRUST in past on small repairs on more modern cars and that seemed to be ok but is sold in smaller amounts.

Or would I be better with a more frictional method instead of a chemical one?

I will try and put pics up.

Cheers

[Mattcortes]

Don't know if this will work

[Mattcortes]

This is the bulkhead rust

[Luxobarge]

I have a deep hate and distrust of chemical rust treatments, I think they leave a surface that will give problems with the subsequent paint layer over time unless you remove them completely after the treatment, which kind of defeats the object. Bare metal is what is really needed, so mechanical rust removal for me almost every time - a combination of sanders, brushes and a spot-blaster would have that looking fine IMHO. I don't deny that it's very time-consuming and messy though.

[SirTainleyBarking]

I might be a bit different here, but I tend to use phosphoric acid based descaler to strip surface rust off on occasion (Not the rust converter, but a liquid version of naval gel) I work for a company that sells cleaning chemicals, so I can pick up sample stuff when I need it, and can get hold of stuff to neutralise it up properly.

That said, prepping metal up for welding? I'm not averse to donning the ear defenders and warming up the angle grinder

[tractorman]

Just to be awkward, I agree with both the previous posts!

I am happy to use Kurust or the Bilt Hamber equivalent when preparing metal for painting and have, so far, had no problems with paint reaction (I did the little tractor's bonnet nine years ago and it's still in good condition (though there is rust from panel joints where the treatment couldn't get between the two panels). A rust remover works well on surface rust, but (and it's a big but) anything slightly deeper needs the top layer removing mechanically because it may look as if the rust has gone, but a little scraping will often uncover more rust! The hardest bit to treat successfully are seams (as per the bonnet I mentioned).

If memory serves "Milkstone Remover" works well - it's easy to get if you are near to an agricultural merchant! It comes in much larger containers than most of the readily available rust removers! I've just found my "information source":

http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PN ... =milkstone

If you give the panels a good going over with an angle grinder and wire brush, you'll get most of the rust off and a coat of a good etch primer (I like Bilt Hamber stuff, though I often use U-Pol aerosols for small patches) will give good protection and prevention. Follow that with a decent stone chip paint and all should be well. Check the stone chip paint first though - some need overpainting as they don't seal properly without it!

Pictures of the tractors are in this topic:

http://practicallyclassics.phpbbhosts.c ... =12&t=2519

Somewhere, there is a photo of the bonnet after (wet) sandblasting and another showing the Kurust-treated bonnet, but I've saved you a hunt:

[mach1rob]

Clean, clean and clean a bit more before even thinking of using anything on it. Rather than a wire brush, get some of these (not necessarily these ones, but they are available for both grinders and drills)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251370992008

get as much of the surface rust off as possible, I even went as far as using a small grinding stone in a Dremmel to get some really deep pitting out, and then use a brush on treatment. They're mostly all of a muchness, so pays your money takes your choice, Kurust seems to be widely available at car shops or DIY stores, but stuff like Bilt Hamber etc I've only ever seen online.

[SirTainleyBarking]

If memory serves "Milkstone Remover" works well - it's easy to get if you are near to an agricultural merchant! It comes in much larger containers than most of the readily available rust removers! I've just found my "information source":

http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PN ... =milkstone

Somewhere, there is a photo of the bonnet after (wet) sandblasting and another showing the Kurust-treated bonnet, but I've saved you a hunt:

Yep Milkstone remover = Phosphoric Acid = Stainless steel descaler (Well the one I sell is) Phosphoric acid doesn't rust spot up stainless like Hydrochloric acid thats used in stuff like brick acid or cheap toilet descaler. If you see the phrases Hydrochloric acid, Spirits of salts or Muriatic acid, don't use it. If in doubt check the bottle or the safety data sheet (aka MSDS, SDS or COSHH sheet)

[Phil P]

I use Kurust but only after removing all the visual rust with wire brushes etc. Then on goes the Kurust. Leave it to go black overnight and then clean off the parts that haven't and then primer. Use filler as required and primer filler and then top coats. Flatting it down as you go. Use top quality filler. My Dodge was pretty rusty in several places. The bad bits were replaced and the remainder treated as above. 8 years later and still no signs of rust coming through. Use best quality primers. Do it right do it once.

[Topaz]

Yep Milkstone remover = Phosphoric Acid = Stainless steel descaler (Well the one I sell is) Phosphoric acid doesn't rust spot up stainless like Hydrochloric acid thats used in stuff like brick acid or cheap toilet descaler. If you see the phrases Hydrochloric acid, Spirits of salts or Muriatic acid, don't use it. If in doubt check the bottle or the safety data sheet (aka MSDS, SDS or COSHH sheet)

Any thoughts about Sulphuric Acid?

My plumber son has a bottle of very powerful 'drain unblocker' that seems to shift anything and is a 50% solution of Sulphuric Acid. Comes with all sorts of health warnings, wear gloves, goggles etc so there are obviously risks but it certainly made the kitchen sink empty twice as fast

Mike